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dfwtxpatrick
09-02-2004, 03:51 PM
Okay,

I just read the "Things that Suck" thread, and am amazed at how many people paid STUPID prices to get things fixed. And I can bet there are alot of you out there that wont admit to it!

As of right now, I am willing to Advise, Mentor or Console you in all things concerning automotive repairs. I do not know it all, but if I can help, I will do so. ABSOLUTELY FREE ADVICE spoken here!

I have over 20 yrs of military and civilian experience in the automotive industry, am pretty knowledgeable in all aspects of auto repair, sales and service. So if you need a question answered, advice on what to do or get a FREE 2nd opinion, let me know.

I live in Fort Worth, TX and just started doing my own mechanic business called "My Personal Mechanic". And I am starting to make a decent living at it.

I am not advertising, just tired of seeing people getting ripped off. Since all the info I give to any SprintUsers who ask is FREE! What do you have to loose?

Patrick

Greezy
09-02-2004, 03:57 PM
Well god bless you! I have a huge list of q's for ya!

The 8
09-02-2004, 04:01 PM
thanks for the help.... i know little to nothing about cars and how they work... i'm just thankful nothing is wrong with my truck right now!

dfwtxpatrick
09-02-2004, 04:06 PM
Well god bless you! I have a huge list of q's for ya!


Let em rip!

List em out, I'll try to answer all of em!

Greezy
09-02-2004, 04:15 PM
How can I check, myself, if my rack & pinion is going out? I have a few mechanic friends that say it is not the rack & pinion but they have not look at the car at all. I simply discribed what was happening. It is the front right that sounds bad almost like a wheel bearing but I have looked at the boot and it's fine but I didn't pull it off. To me it only sounds like the front right. There is no play in the wheel at all, meaning it feels just fine and when I over rotate it just sounds like a loose bolt, so to speak. Manny, Moe & Jack told me it is the R&P though. Oh, it's a 93 Pontiac Grand Prix. One more thing...the front end had been driven up onto a small brick wall which ruined the running lights but I can't see any other damage on the pan, rack or anywhere underneath. Thanks!

dfwtxpatrick
09-02-2004, 04:37 PM
How can I check, myself, if my rack & pinion is going out? I have a few mechanic friends that say it is not the rack & pinion but they have not look at the car at all. I simply discribed what was happening. It is the front right that sounds bad almost like a wheel bearing but I have looked at the boot and it's fine but I didn't pull it off. To me it only sounds like the front right. There is no play in the wheel at all, meaning it feels just fine and when I over rotate it just sounds like a loose bolt, so to speak. Manny, Moe & Jack told me it is the R&P though. Oh, it's a 93 Pontiac Grand Prix. One more thing...the front end had been driven up onto a small brick wall which ruined the running lights but I can't see any other damage on the pan, rack or anywhere underneath. Thanks!

Okay! Many variables here, but here's my experience w/ these cars!

What your describing sounds like what you mentioned, the wheel bearing. There doesn't have to be any play in it for it to be bad.

Follow these steps to see if you can answer your own question!

1) Set parking brake so car wont roll.
2) Jack up the front end to get it off the ground, if you cant do the whole car at once, do one side at a time.
NOTE: ALWAYS USE JACK STANDS BEFORE GOING ANY FARTHER!
3) Put car into Neutral.
4) Rotate the lifted wheel and see if it sounds like a metal to metal rubbing together sound. If you hear something like metal to metal , it could be the wheel bearing. If you dont, it could be the CV Axle (but you will usually hear a clicking sound when you turn towards the direction you think the sound is coming from). Hard to tell w/o more info, but gives you a place to start.

It is easier to replace the whole Spindle assembly and cheaper if you go w/ a used one from a junk yard. Average price of a new spindle assembly is about $200, while going used should be about $65. This doesn't cover labor, but you should be able to get it done at a shop for $200 for used and $300 for a new one. Any more than that, look around. If you can find someone like me to do it for you, offer to pay about $35 - $50 to them for doing it. That is about what I would charge to do it.

Let me know what you find out!

FELLOW SPRINTUSERS!

Pls feel free to respond w/ your opinions and suggestions to help our fellow SU get the most out of this experience.

I'll be offline till tonight, but I'll check back to see what you find.

Greezy
09-02-2004, 04:45 PM
Thanks! I am going to get into this Saturday. I know a friend of mine has a lift in his shop! :)

mcurtiss1970
09-02-2004, 04:59 PM
my gas gauge is totally wrong. it is a 16 gallon tank but when it gets down to 1/4 full and i fill it up, i only get about 7 gallons into the tank.

easily fixed or do i just grin and bear it?

mactruck
09-02-2004, 05:03 PM
Does your experience include any body work? I pulled a major dumb **** in my truck and pulled a Tommy Boy where they ripped the door off at the gas station by backing into the cement pillar thing. I bent it back out with a crowbar as best I could, but I would like to get my baby fixed, just curious on a ball park figure to replace the door and the driver side fender on a 95 Dakota. Or how hard would it for me to do myself decently. I know I would need pro paint work :(

2pac
09-02-2004, 07:50 PM
Yes! thank God I'm not having any problems with my car now, but if i need some advice down the road(you get it?) do you mind me pm'ing you and asking your opinion? of course, only if you're still around SU.
much appreciated

Oh, 1 quickie, when I bought my Mitsu Galant (with 43K miles) the oil light was showing even after I replaced the oil, The problem was the oil switch which I replaced for a little over $100 (is that a normal price?) and should I be concerned if the previous owner of the car was driving with a bad switch for a while? Is an oil switch a big problem?

sorry for the Q's, I'm as knowledgable with auto repairs just as much as a bunch of thumbtacks, which doesn't say much.

Thanks again

dfwtxpatrick
09-02-2004, 09:29 PM
my gas gauge is totally wrong. it is a 16 gallon tank but when it gets down to 1/4 full and i fill it up, i only get about 7 gallons into the tank.

easily fixed or do i just grin and bear it?

Simple Answer: Grin & Bear it! Just fill up your car, reset your trip odometer or write down mileage if you dont have a trip odometer to keep track. Depending on what you drive, most vehicles will get at least 200 miles to a tank of gas, so when your trip odometer gets to 200 miles, fill up completely, then take how many gallons you bought. (NOTE: Not how much you spent, but how many gallons you got!) and divide that into the mileage you drove. (EXAMPLE: you got 8 gallons of gas after going 200 miles. So, divide 200 by 8 and you get 25 miles per gallon.) So, if you have a 16 gallon tank and average 25 mpg, then you should be able to go about 400 miles before you need to fill up again. Get it?

Also, inspect your gas tank for any damage underneath, on the sides or otherwise. If you do see any damage, it would be wise to replace the tank asap! Okay!



Does your experience include any body work? I pulled a major dumb **** in my truck and pulled a Tommy Boy where they ripped the door off at the gas station by backing into the cement pillar thing. I bent it back out with a crowbar as best I could, but I would like to get my baby fixed, just curious on a ball park figure to replace the door and the driver side fender on a 95 Dakota. Or how hard would it for me to do myself decently. I know I would need pro paint work :(

Been there, got the T-shirt!

Depending on if you did any frame damage where the door hinges mount to the body is going to decide your best course of action. If you can not see the frame is bent where the hinges mount to the body, then DIY! If they are bent, you will need an experienced body shop to repair the damage. And they will not usually allow you to provide your own parts for installation as they wont make any profit off of them. (Sometimes you can get them to install the door & fender you supply)

If you can remove and replace the door and fender yourself, you will save an average of $400 on labor alone for replacing them. Not to mention, you wont have to pay the bodyshops marked up price to buy them. My online sources average $200 for a used door w/o power windows and $250 for a used door w/ power windows. The fender is going to run about $100 used. Expect to pay an extra $100 per piece for new/aftermarket pieces. Okay? Let me know.



Yes! thank God I'm not having any problems with my car now, but if i need some advice down the road(you get it?) do you mind me pm'ing you and asking your opinion? of course, only if you're still around SU.
much appreciated

Oh, 1 quickie, when I bought my Mitsu Galant (with 43K miles) the oil light was showing even after I replaced the oil, The problem was the oil switch which I replaced for a little over $100 (is that a normal price?) and should I be concerned if the previous owner of the car was driving with a bad switch for a while? Is an oil switch a big problem?

sorry for the Q's, I'm as knowledgable with auto repairs just as much as a bunch of thumbtacks, which doesn't say much.

Thanks again

Yes I get it! LOL.

The previous owner may/may not have paid attention to it or found out the oil switch was bad and didn't worry about it.

Sorry, but the $100 you paid was mostly for labor. Depending on the yr model & engine size, the switch averages $30 - $50 in most cases. But the piece of mind of having it fixed is a good thing. Okay!

PS! The transmissions on these cars are not strong and are easy to tear up. Keep the fluid changed and if you notice a slight problem, get it fixed/replaced asap as the longer it goes bad, the more damage it will do! It doesn't matter what year, all the way up to 2001 are known for bad trannys.

Marlon_JB2
09-02-2004, 09:37 PM
I got a question. ;)

I have a '93 Plymouth Colt (Mitsubishi Mirage), and, well, I'm having a couple problems with it. (It was given to me.)

When backing up, the engine seems to stutter, and RPMs drop, but it never stalls. THis only happens on cold starts. Tune up was just done about 8,000 miles ago. I was thinking fuel filter?

Oh, and the A/C, while it still works, makes this hideous noise. A loud, embarassing humming noise when it's engaged... and a occasional click when it's not engaged. Happens at all engine speeds. I can see the A/C belt wobbling. I hope I don't need a new compressor. :(

Thanks. Oh, it has exactly 131,003 miles on it.

dfwtxpatrick
09-03-2004, 07:43 AM
I got a question. ;)

I have a '93 Plymouth Colt (Mitsubishi Mirage), and, well, I'm having a couple problems with it. (It was given to me.)

When backing up, the engine seems to stutter, and RPMs drop, but it never stalls. THis only happens on cold starts. Tune up was just done about 8,000 miles ago. I was thinking fuel filter?

Oh, and the A/C, while it still works, makes this hideous noise. A loud, embarassing humming noise when it's engaged... and a occasional click when it's not engaged. Happens at all engine speeds. I can see the A/C belt wobbling. I hope I don't need a new compressor. :(

Thanks. Oh, it has exactly 131,003 miles on it.


Thank goodness you didn't pay for it, since that would mean you have the word "SUCKER" on your forehead! LOL!

The Mirage/Colt have several problems w/ this issue. It most commonly is that your cold idle screw is not adjusted properly. You have 2 settings for idle adjustment. The first one is the cold idle = it raises the idle of your car to about 1000-1100 rpm when you first start the car. These stops the cold engine from revving too low and dying. The 2nd one is the normal idle adjustment. This should have your car idling at about 700-800 when it warmed up. These idle rpms are for when the car is in park / neutral only. Allow about a 100-200 rpm drop when placed in drive/reverse. Any more than that and you need to have it adjusted.

Also, just for giggles, have your motor mounts checked to ensure they are not allowing the motor to move when placed in reverse as this will put severe stress on the motor/trans/cv axles, ect! Okay.

As for the A/C, it is probably fixing to go out since you see the belt wobbling. If you don't need the A/C, have the belt removed so it wont mess up your other belts if it comes off. Otherwise, keep a spare belt that runs your Alternator and water pump, or you could end up stranded. Okay! Theres alot more to this, I will be more than happy to answer further questions, just PM me if you have any!

HINT: If possible, wait until Jan/Feb to have your A/C fixed as the prices could be as much as 50% cheaper than during the Spring/Summer!

Have a nice day. I will check back later in the evening for anymore questions!

LoDown3
09-03-2004, 07:48 AM
Okay,

I am not advertising, just tired of seeing people getting ripped off. Since all the info I give to any SprintUsers who ask is FREE! What do you have to loose?
Patrick

tired of people getting ripped off? FREE?...i've never seen such a mechanic in my area, am i dreaming??? :D

-1! :cool:


*oh and good luck w/ the biz brother pat

dfwtxpatrick
09-03-2004, 09:34 AM
tired of people getting ripped off? FREE?...i've never seen such a mechanic in my area, am i dreaming??? :D

-1! :cool:


*oh and good luck w/ the biz brother pat

Thanks!

I'd also like to see others with experience in this field get involved. If you've got time to read this, then you've got time to reply with a possible answer to solve a problem.

Believe me, I know that what comes around, goes around. And I enjoy helping people stranded on the side of the road, this gets them back on the road, away from possible accidents, and ensures they don't fall prey to some bad people or rip off artists.

Pls feel free to ask questions, as I've said previously, the only stupid questions are the unasked ones. And they always get more expensive the longer they are not asked!

Marlon_JB2
09-03-2004, 01:19 PM
Thank goodness you didn't pay for it, since that would mean you have the word "SUCKER" on your forehead! LOL!

The Mirage/Colt have several problems w/ this issue. It most commonly is that your cold idle screw is not adjusted properly. You have 2 settings for idle adjustment. The first one is the cold idle = it raises the idle of your car to about 1000-1100 rpm when you first start the car. These stops the cold engine from revving too low and dying. The 2nd one is the normal idle adjustment. This should have your car idling at about 700-800 when it warmed up. These idle rpms are for when the car is in park / neutral only. Allow about a 100-200 rpm drop when placed in drive/reverse. Any more than that and you need to have it adjusted.



Hmm, forgot... you can push the gas pedal, and no matter how hard, there's a 1-2 second delay until the engine makes any power whatsoever... almost like it's not getting fuel/air.

I knew the car had some problems before I got it. Other than this, it drives along without trouble. I call it the "Go-Kart".

dfwtxpatrick
09-04-2004, 12:39 AM
Hmm, forgot... you can push the gas pedal, and no matter how hard, there's a 1-2 second delay until the engine makes any power whatsoever... almost like it's not getting fuel/air.

I knew the car had some problems before I got it. Other than this, it drives along without trouble. I call it the "Go-Kart".


Yeah, it still sounds like the idle adjustment. It could also be a carburator needing to be rebuilt. And for that car, it could get quite expensive. If this is all you are dealing with, and the car is running fine otherwise, then I'd leave well enough alone and not mess w/ it as it will probably cause worse problems.

charlie0010
09-05-2004, 05:48 PM
Wirelessly posted (SCP 5500: Mozilla/4.0 (MobilePhone SCP-5500/US/1.0) NetFront/3.0 MMP/2.0)

Yes! thank God I'm not having any problems with my car now, but if i need some advice down the road(you get it?) do you mind me pm'ing you and asking your opinion? of course, only if you're still around SU.
much appreciated

Oh, 1 quickie, when I bought my Mitsu Galant (with 43K miles) the oil light was showing even after I replaced the oil, The problem was the oil switch which I replaced for a little over $100 (is that a normal price?) and should I be concerned if the previous owner of the car was driving with a bad switch for a while? Is an oil switch a big problem?

sorry for the Q's, I'm as knowledgable with auto repairs just as much as a bunch of thumbtacks, which doesn't say much.

Thanks again

A Oil Switch Is Really Not A Big Deal. $100 Is About Right For That Kind Of Work. And Do Not Worry It Didn't Harm A Thing Having A Bad Switch.

Ebonyjess
09-05-2004, 11:12 PM
Hi.. I have a 1988 Toyota Camry with 125,000+ miles on it. About last month I noticed the check oil light was on and I said i'd eventually get to it.. WELL, I was on the highway and the engine started making a LOUD ticking noise whenever I pressed down on the gas pedal.. and it continued to do that all the way home.. I got a friend to put oil in it.. he told me the tank was dRY... he put in 3, yes 3 bottles of oil (20w-40) in the car and about 2 weeks later the light came on again.

I'm convinced I have an oil leak somewhere, which doesn't bother me, I now check the oil weekly, but what really bothers me is that that loud ticking noise comes every now and then.. usually when I get to 35-40mph so I avoid the highway..

Any idea what could be causing that ticking noise? and how serious is it?? will my car conk out soon??

TknCareOfBsnss
09-05-2004, 11:45 PM
ive got one for ya

87 olds 98 regency with a 3.8L engine in it.. 69k miles. my granddad didnt take care of it at all... sometimes it starts.. sometimes it doesnt.. it has no trouble turning over, just sometimes will fire off sometimes wont. and when it doesnt, usually i can go back 1/2 hours later and it starts.. what relay is bad?

tj2nis
09-06-2004, 02:20 AM
quick question. i have a '04 taurus. about 2 weeks ago the girlfriend backed into a fire hydrant (she was barely moving) and did a little damage to the rear passenger side bumper (by the wheel well). now when i drive, im hearing a "chirping" sound that i believe is coming from the rear wheel. what do you think was loosened to create this "chirp" sound?

dfwtxpatrick
09-06-2004, 02:55 PM
Hi.. I have a 1988 Toyota Camry with 125,000+ miles on it. About last month I noticed the check oil light was on and I said i'd eventually get to it.. WELL, I was on the highway and the engine started making a LOUD ticking noise whenever I pressed down on the gas pedal.. and it continued to do that all the way home.. I got a friend to put oil in it.. he told me the tank was dRY... he put in 3, yes 3 bottles of oil (20w-40) in the car and about 2 weeks later the light came on again.

I'm convinced I have an oil leak somewhere, which doesn't bother me, I now check the oil weekly, but what really bothers me is that that loud ticking noise comes every now and then.. usually when I get to 35-40mph so I avoid the highway..

Any idea what could be causing that ticking noise? and how serious is it?? will my car conk out soon??

Fortunately for you, the Toyota engine is a a strong one that can take alot of abuse. Now that you've learned the light means check it, you should be okay for now. How long it will be a problem is dependent on how much damage was done.

Depending on where the ticking noise is coming from is going to tell you what may be wrong. Is the noise coming from the top of the motor, or the bottom? You can listen for sure by opening the hood, let the motor run and when you hear the sound, is it coming from the top or bottom.

If the noise is coming from the top, it is most likely a lifter. (I'll explain what they do in a minute) If the noise is coming from underneath, it is most likely a rod. (^ in a minute)

Now, a lifter is in the top of the motor and is filled with oil, this allows the motor to open the valves so you can get gas into the engine to burn. If the lifter has little or no oil, then it cannot open the valve, thus not allowing enough gas to be burned for a good running motor. Think of it as the spring in your pen when you push down on the button on top to get the tip of the pen to come down. If the spring is missing, broken or worn out, it will not allow the tip of the pen to come down so you can write. Does this explaination help?

If the rod is knocking on the bottom of the engine, then this is a sign of potential issues. Now a rod does not have to be knocking to cause problems, but a noise from the lower end is always a sign of pending problems to come. A rod is the moving foundation of the cylinder and if it breaks, it usually causes severe, irrepairable engine damage. I have heard rods knocking for several years before they finally give out. So if your just hearing it now and then from the bottom, then you probably have alot of mileage to get out of your motor before the end! You should find out where your oil leak is, or if your oil pump may be the culprit. Also run a heavier oil during the summer. I use Castrol 20-50 in everything I own during the summer and 10-30 during the winter months. Give the heavier oil a try at your next oil change and see if the noise is reduced, or gone. Okay!


ive got one for ya

87 olds 98 regency with a 3.8L engine in it.. 69k miles. my granddad didnt take care of it at all... sometimes it starts.. sometimes it doesnt.. it has no trouble turning over, just sometimes will fire off sometimes wont. and when it doesnt, usually i can go back 1/2 hours later and it starts.. what relay is bad?

Okay, these are the fun ones as there are so many possibilities!

First off, ensure the battery is completely charged, it should show a minimum of 12.5 to 13 volts w/ a voltmeter with no power be drawn. Ensure the doors are closed and the ignition is off.

Next, remove the battery cables and clean them & the battery terminals completely. If there is a bad connection, it will create this problem because the battery cannot pass the power like it is supposed to. Once all this is done, then check the connections on the starter and follow your black negative wire to ensure they are all clean with good connections. If there is alot of oil on the starter, it could be shorting out too. The good thing is the starter is not expensive for this car. Could be $50 - $100 depending on where you buy it.

Once it starts, does it stay running? If so, its probably just a battery / starter issue. IF it dies after running, then it could be alot more. Let me know!


quick question. i have a '04 taurus. about 2 weeks ago the girlfriend backed into a fire hydrant (she was barely moving) and did a little damage to the rear passenger side bumper (by the wheel well). now when i drive, im hearing a "chirping" sound that i believe is coming from the rear wheel. what do you think was loosened to create this "chirp" sound?

Most likely, it is possible she caused the plastic liner above the wheel to move, and it could be rubbing on the tire. You'd have to get under there w/ a flashlight and see if anything is touching the wheel. If nothing is touching the wheel, then it could be several other things. Your fuel pump is run by an electric motor in the gas tank and this could have been bumped out of place and it is rubbing on the gas tank itself. < most likely not your problem.

Also check underneath the car to ensure the exhaust is not rubbing up against the frame. With the engine cold, lay on the ground at the rear and grab the exhaust pipe and wiggle it. You may be able to recreate the sound and you'll see what is causing it. Make sure you have on a glove or a rag as the exhaust pipe is pretty dirty. Let me know!

TknCareOfBsnss
09-06-2004, 03:15 PM
its a brand new battery, so thats not the issue.. and the terminals are clean and tight.

dfwtxpatrick
09-06-2004, 08:56 PM
its a brand new battery, so thats not the issue.. and the terminals are clean and tight.

Okay, then I would first look at the connection at the starter. Or see if it is covered in oil.

The starter is a good possibility as it will act up just like you mentioned.

W/O being able to look at it, I have to guess.

So here are a few questions.

When it doesn't want to start, does it click, make a whirring sound or do nothing?

If it clicks, then the starter solenoid could be the problem.
If it whirrs, then the bendix could be the problem.
If it does nothing, could be the solenoid, wiring could be bad or the starter is dead.
In any of these cases, the starter will most likely need to be replaced.

When you say it doesn't want to start, will it crank over, but not run or does it do what I asked just above?

Let me know and we'll go further. :)

TknCareOfBsnss
09-06-2004, 10:00 PM
it turns over just fine, but will not fire off. occasionally it is a little rough idling, and when at a stop light the \check engine light/ comes on.. which could be a cause of the original plugs and wire (of course this whoel problem could be that also), as well as the O2 sensor is doing its job.

thought if i could get the not starting problem solved, id be set, and could move forward from there..

tj2nis
09-06-2004, 11:09 PM
your right, the fuel pump line is near where the damage is...and there is also a plastic liner under the tire thats out of place...i'll check it out when i get home from work...thanks for the info

Dinozero
09-06-2004, 11:31 PM
I have a 95 Izusu Rodeo. It's got an o2 light thats constantly lit up, it's had it on every since I got it, about 40/k miles ago. :p


As far as I know, the car is in tip top condition, except for me needing the change the breaks soon.


Does that light mean anything serious? Someone told me its just something that comes on after a certain milage, and your supposed to go get it checked or something, and they'll turn the light off. I got the oil changed somewhere and the people tried to reset the thing, but couldn't.. I dunno..


Help!

mactruck
09-07-2004, 01:13 AM
Im thinking about getting a my first motorcycle from a buddy of mine. The price seems right but there is ONE problem. It idle's hella high. ~3-4K rmp at times. If you release the clutch and bring it back again, it adjusts. Sometimes switching out of neutral and back fixies it too. Any ideas on that. BTW, thanks for the heads up on my truck. about to tear down the left body and find out what parts i need exactly.

dfwtxpatrick
09-07-2004, 08:30 AM
it turns over just fine, but will not fire off. occasionally it is a little rough idling, and when at a stop light the \check engine light/ comes on.. which could be a cause of the original plugs and wire (of course this whoel problem could be that also), as well as the O2 sensor is doing its job.

thought if i could get the not starting problem solved, id be set, and could move forward from there..

If you haven't done a tune up, I would since he never took care of it and it probably needs it. And yes, this could be the whole problem. Here's some more info.

These cars have a coil pack instead of a distributor and sometimes the coil pack or the ignition module underneath it is shorting out. If you have some mechanical abilities, then you can easily remove the coil pack and see if the ignition module is showing signs of being burnt. Also, once removed, the module can be tested at most Auto parts stores like AutoZone, Advance, PepBoys, ect. Depends on what is in your area. You have to make sure they test it at least 10 times to make sure it is heating up.

If you decide to get in there, make sure you check all the wires to ensure they are not burnt, cracked or broken. The plug-in that goes into the ignition module is notorious for collecting water and rusting, thus causing starting problems.

You can get a Haynes Manual for this car and it clearly shows you how to do everything I have said. Not to mention, it is good to have around for future reference.

Check it out and let me know.



I have a 95 Izusu Rodeo. It's got an o2 light thats constantly lit up, it's had it on every since I got it, about 40/k miles ago. :p

As far as I know, the car is in tip top condition, except for me needing the change the breaks soon.

Does that light mean anything serious? Someone told me its just something that comes on after a certain milage, and your supposed to go get it checked or something, and they'll turn the light off. I got the oil changed somewhere and the people tried to reset the thing, but couldn't.. I dunno..

Help!

I have to ask, are you sure it's not the Check Engine Lite? I don't think they have a specific light for the 02 sensor. Or was that what you were told when you bought it?

If your check engine lite is on, then there are several things that need to be addressed. Since it is a pre-96 model, then you'd have to find a shop or Auto parts store that check the light on the year model. I would get it checked out asap, since you've been driving around for 40k miles, you can actually do some serious damage.

Yes, the light being on is a way of also getting people to bring the car into the dealer, then they tell you that you need $100's if not $1000's of work on the car. The light usually comes on around pre-determined mileage on the car/truck. They will usually come on around 40-60k miles, then again at 100k and usually every 30-40k after that.

You can actually reset that light your self. You have to disconnect the battery cables from the battery, then use your jumper cables and connect them to the battery cables from your Rodeo, not the battery, then connect the other to a metal rod that is going into the ground. This disipates any residual current in the car and lets the car computer reset. If your light comes back on, sometimes in less than 50 miles or as much as 500 miles, then you need to get it checked out. If the light doesn't come back on, then you just reset the mileage "flag" as it is called, and have nothing to worry about.

Try these and let me know!



Im thinking about getting a my first motorcycle from a buddy of mine. The price seems right but there is ONE problem. It idle's hella high. ~3-4K rmp at times. If you release the clutch and bring it back again, it adjusts. Sometimes switching out of neutral and back fixies it too. Any ideas on that. BTW, thanks for the heads up on my truck. about to tear down the left body and find out what parts i need exactly.

I'm not an experienced Motorcycle mech, but sounds like your idle is just sticking. I would first check the throttle cable to ensure it is not kinked somewhere, also check to make sure a return spring is attached on the carburator to make it kick back to low idle. Also, there is usually a "cold" idle adjustment that could be wrong, or sticking as well. Check out all of this and let me know!

IceBergEB
09-07-2004, 11:33 AM
Hi, and a question.

I have a '98 Dodge Intrepid. It will absolutely not start. Went to get my wife some donuts, (she's pregnant) came out, and the car wouldn't start. The lights work, the horn works, (just bought a battery 3 weeks ago), everything electrical works. There is absolutely no sound when I turn the key, no clicking of the starter trying to turn over, nothing. Besides the starter, what else could be the problem? And is there any way to test if it IS the starter?

Thanks, :cool: you rock!!!

bitey
09-07-2004, 11:38 AM
Hi. We have a 95 Ford Windstar and the door ajar light is constantly on. The dome light is also on until we hit about 30-35 mph at which time it goes out until we slow down to below that. At night when it is parked, sometimes the dome light goes out after 30-40 minutes and sometimes it doesn't. The only way we can control the dome light when the car isn't moving is to pull the fuse; however, then the power locks don't work. Also, if you are driving with the fuse pulled, the windows don't work (this is a problem). We have looked at the doors and see nothing blocking any of them and they all close with the same normal noise. Infrequently, the problem stops on it's own for a day or two (or for a few hours at least) but this is becoming less and less frequent. No amount of slamming doors helps this situation. We would like this fixed but can't afford to pay someone to "hunt" for the problem. Is there something we can do ourselves or have done inexpensively? What do you think is causing this? Thanks very much.

MinorThreat
09-07-2004, 11:44 AM
i recently stripped out a screw on my wrangler, I drilled out the screw, but broke off the screw extractor inside the screw. I hear these are nearly impossible to drill out. How can i get this screw extractor out of the screw?

lcyals
09-07-2004, 02:05 PM
Know anything about VW's? I have an '01 Golf that recently doesn't want to reverse when I put it in gear. Don't think it's transmission because all other gears work fine and there are no leaks to speak of. Confused because once the car is warmed up, reverse seems to work fine, only seems to happen when I first start it and doesn't happen all the time. Help is appreciated.

Greezy
09-07-2004, 04:33 PM
Hi.. I have a 1988 Toyota Camry with 125,000+ miles on it. About last month I noticed the check oil light was on and I said i'd eventually get to it.. WELL, I was on the highway and the engine started making a LOUD ticking noise whenever I pressed down on the gas pedal.. and it continued to do that all the way home.. I got a friend to put oil in it.. he told me the tank was dRY... he put in 3, yes 3 bottles of oil (20w-40) in the car and about 2 weeks later the light came on again.

I'm convinced I have an oil leak somewhere, which doesn't bother me, I now check the oil weekly, but what really bothers me is that that loud ticking noise comes every now and then.. usually when I get to 35-40mph so I avoid the highway..

Any idea what could be causing that ticking noise? and how serious is it?? will my car conk out soon??
If you went w/o oil that long you could have a cracked lifter(s) or a bent rod or god only knows. Did the engine ever over heat? Make sure to check your engine coolant and hoses too. Without oil it doesn't take long to dry out the water and antifreeze.

dfwtxpatrick
09-07-2004, 07:24 PM
Hi, and a question.

I have a '98 Dodge Intrepid. It will absolutely not start. Went to get my wife some donuts, (she's pregnant) came out, and the car wouldn't start. The lights work, the horn works, (just bought a battery 3 weeks ago), everything electrical works. There is absolutely no sound when I turn the key, no clicking of the starter trying to turn over, nothing. Besides the starter, what else could be the problem? And is there any way to test if it IS the starter?

Thanks, :cool: you rock!!!

Since you answered most of the questions I would have to ask, I will try to answer them.

I would recheck the battery connections from the car to the battery to ensure they are hooked up securely. A loose connection could cause this issue.

Check all of your fuses under the hood as you have up to 3 that could run the ignition. There are also 1 or 2 in the car. Open the Drivers door, look at the dash and just under the dash on the side is a little door you can take off that actually should say Fuses. Look for any blown fuses there or under the hood in the black box, should be on the drivers side, that may be blown. It could just be a coincedence that this fuse blew, but that is where I would start.

If you don't find anything blown, then I suggest removing the battery cables from the battery and using your jumper cables, connect the jumper cables to the cables you took off the battery, DO NOT CONNECT TO THE BATTERY!, then using the other end, connect them to something metal that is going into the ground so you will completely remove all electrical residue in the system. Leave them this way for about 15 minutes, then reconnect the cars cables to the battery and see what happens.

You could have a bad ignition switch as well, but if the previous things I've recommended don't work, then it may need to be diagnosed by a mechanic who can look at it.

Hope this helps. Let me know.


Hi. We have a 95 Ford Windstar and the door ajar light is constantly on. The dome light is also on until we hit about 30-35 mph at which time it goes out until we slow down to below that. At night when it is parked, sometimes the dome light goes out after 30-40 minutes and sometimes it doesn't. The only way we can control the dome light when the car isn't moving is to pull the fuse; however, then the power locks don't work. Also, if you are driving with the fuse pulled, the windows don't work (this is a problem). We have looked at the doors and see nothing blocking any of them and they all close with the same normal noise. Infrequently, the problem stops on it's own for a day or two (or for a few hours at least) but this is becoming less and less frequent. No amount of slamming doors helps this situation. We would like this fixed but can't afford to pay someone to "hunt" for the problem. Is there something we can do ourselves or have done inexpensively? What do you think is causing this? Thanks very much.

Okay, this is a common problem for the Fords from 1994 up to 1999 and early 2000's. It is not just the Aerostar either, the Ranger pickup and Escort also had this common problem.

It could be a short in the wiring, but most likely it is the door pin. That is the little pin that sticks out at the part where the door is hinged. This pin is very weak and usually made of plastic where it sticks in the body. What happens is that the pin gets pushed back into the body and it "thinks" it is not closed all the way. Thus, keeping the dome light and dash light on.

I tried to place a hand drawn picture with this, but was too big. Anyone at a auto parts store should be able to show you where the pin is on all of the doors. The easiest way to test them all is have several people help you, open all the doors on the van and check all the pins to ensure they all stick out at about the same length, if one or two doesn't, the you know where to start. If they all look the same, then with several helping hands, open all the doors, press all the pins in at the same time. If the lights do not go out, then have one person at a time release a pin and push it back in. If the lights flicker or go out once this is done, then you've most likely found the bad pin. If you try this with all the pins and nothing changes, I would pull out each pin individually and check to make sure it is not broken or bent, this could cause the issue.

If you've done all listed above w/o success, then it is time to have it checked by a knowledgeable person, being sure you tell them you already tested each pin and checked all of them, this will reduce the amount of work the person has to do and gives them a head start on the problem.

Another possibility is that one of the doors is misaligned and not closing properly. You should be able to determine this by looking at each door, ensuring it matches all surfaces it comes into contact with. If you have a misalignment, that could be your problem. If this is the case, I would simply remove the pin from the door and tape off that pin so it will not be a problem anymore. Okay?

Let me know.


i recently stripped out a screw on my wrangler, I drilled out the screw, but broke off the screw extractor inside the screw. I hear these are nearly impossible to drill out. How can i get this screw extractor out of the screw?

You will need a cobolt or titanium drill bit to do this. There is a trick to using an extractor. Always start with a small bit, drill it down to how far you need to go, then use several bits that get larger each time you drill until you are almost as big as the bolt your trying to remove. Then use the extractor. It is also recommended to use heat when trying to remove the bolt. Give these a try and see what happens.


Know anything about VW's? I have an '01 Golf that recently doesn't want to reverse when I put it in gear. Don't think it's transmission because all other gears work fine and there are no leaks to speak of. Confused because once the car is warmed up, reverse seems to work fine, only seems to happen when I first start it and doesn't happen all the time. Help is appreciated.

I have to guess that the tranny is an automatic, but I'll try to cover both.

If it is an automatic, then the fact it goes into reverse after warmed up is an indication of 2 possible things.

First is that the filter and fluid may need to be changed. This is not hard, but not easy if you have no tools or know how. Also, if you need to, get a manual on the car and this will help.

Second, once warmed up, the clutches swell up and will allow the transmission to work properly. As you can probably guess, this problem would require transmission work and for this car is not cheap! You may be able to find a junkyard that has one. My online sources average $700-900 for a USED one! It would probably be about $1500 to $2000 for a rebuilt one at a shop.


If the tranny is a standard, then you could have a simple linkage problem that is stopping you, or it could be a plastic washer on the shifter that is messed up and when it gets hot, it loosens up a little bit.

If the linkage is not a problem, it could be a syncro that is inside the transmission and this would require transmission work as well, with the figures in the same range as listed above.

So check it out and hopefully it will be one of the simple problems.

Let me know.

640k
09-07-2004, 08:16 PM
How do I convince my dealership that my brakes are rubbing together and that they need to replace the calipers? I can hear it whenever I pass structures, tunnels, garages, etc. There is an obvious metal rubbing metal going on. I've had problems with brakes before and I know exactly what it sounds like, but the dealership won't do anything about it. The rims don't get hot, and there isn't an excess of brake dust.

Additionally, I have what sounds to be a bad (or blown) strut. Couldn't duplicate the THUNK sound it makes when I happen to only pull into my subdivision. They won't look at it either unless they can replicate the noise.

By the by, both should be covered under warranty.

Dinozero
09-07-2004, 08:40 PM
I have to ask, are you sure it's not the Check Engine Lite? I don't think they have a specific light for the 02 sensor. Or was that what you were told when you bought it?

If your check engine lite is on, then there are several things that need to be addressed. Since it is a pre-96 model, then you'd have to find a shop or Auto parts store that check the light on the year model. I would get it checked out asap, since you've been driving around for 40k miles, you can actually do some serious damage.

Yes, the light being on is a way of also getting people to bring the car into the dealer, then they tell you that you need $100's if not $1000's of work on the car. The light usually comes on around pre-determined mileage on the car/truck. They will usually come on around 40-60k miles, then again at 100k and usually every 30-40k after that.

You can actually reset that light your self. You have to disconnect the battery cables from the battery, then use your jumper cables and connect them to the battery cables from your Rodeo, not the battery, then connect the other to a metal rod that is going into the ground. This disipates any residual current in the car and lets the car computer reset. If your light comes back on, sometimes in less than 50 miles or as much as 500 miles, then you need to get it checked out. If the light doesn't come back on, then you just reset the mileage "flag" as it is called, and have nothing to worry about.

Try these and let me know!


Yeah, I'm positive. It's an "o2" light, thats all it says, anyways. "o2".

The car has about 120/k miles on it now, and like I said, it seems to be in tip top condition, when we took it to get the oil changed once.. guys tried to hook up a lil thing to it to turn the light off, but couldn't get it too.

dfwtxpatrick
09-08-2004, 09:25 AM
How do I convince my dealership that my brakes are rubbing together and that they need to replace the calipers? I can hear it whenever I pass structures, tunnels, garages, etc. There is an obvious metal rubbing metal going on. I've had problems with brakes before and I know exactly what it sounds like, but the dealership won't do anything about it. The rims don't get hot, and there isn't an excess of brake dust.

Additionally, I have what sounds to be a bad (or blown) strut. Couldn't duplicate the THUNK sound it makes when I happen to only pull into my subdivision. They won't look at it either unless they can replicate the noise.

By the by, both should be covered under warranty.


I believe I read that you had an Acura RX in MSRANDALL's thread about a new baby. If so, it depends on what year and how many miles you have on it for it to be covered under warranty. Most manufacturers warrantys are bumper to bumper for 3 yrs or 36k miles. If you are under both of these, than yes, it should be covered under warranty. The only way they can argue it's not covered is if there is damage from an apparent wreck or they can prove you did something to the car.

The brake system on the RX is a high performance one that should include some high dollar pads and anti lock brakes. It is a reality that if your pads are semi metallic, ceramic or a combination of these, then they will squeak as you drive. The fact that you don't have excessive brake dust is an indication you do have one of these types of brake pads as they dont dust the wheel like regular brakes do. And that the wheels are not getting hot to the touch are also indicitive of them making normal sounds and not rubbing more than they should. Unfortunately, a squeaking or rubbing sound is a by product of these types of brake systems and you could change the pads many times and never get rid of the sound.

You may however, have your brakes inspected by a professional shop, get an estimate and take that to your dealer to back up your claim and see what happens. I would also get a 2nd opinion from another dealer as this may be what you need. Since you have an Acura, you can go to a Honda dealer as well since that is who makes the Acura. It could be your best bet.

As for the strut, get a professional shop to look at that as well and take that estimate for repair to the dealer as well, I'd do both the brakes and strut at the same time to minimize the dealer thinking your crying wolf or something.

Midas and shops like it specialize in brakes and struts and usually give a free estimate or charge a minimal fee to provide you w/ an estimate. Stay away from shops that are not brand name and cover a wider area of Automotive services as these usually get blown off by the dealer as just trying to get your money.

Pls also understand that doing warranty work is the least desired by the dealer and the mechanic as they get a minimum fee or pay for doing it. So they try to talk you into something that would cost you and make money for them.

Let me know!


[B]Yeah, I'm positive. It's an "o2" light, thats all it says, anyways. "o2".

The car has about 120/k miles on it now, and like I said, it seems to be in tip top condition, when we took it to get the oil changed once.. guys tried to hook up a lil thing to it to turn the light off, but couldn't get it too.

Okay, since it says 02, then it probably is one of the 02 sensors on the vehicle and will need to be replaced. As I stated before, try following my previous suggestion to remove the light and see what happens. Here is the info again:

You can actually reset that light your self. You have to disconnect the battery cables from the battery, then use your jumper cables and connect them to the battery cables from your Rodeo, not the battery, then connect the other to a metal rod that is going into the ground. This disipates any residual current in the car and lets the car computer reset. If your light comes back on, sometimes in less than 50 miles or as much as 500 miles, then you need to get it checked out. If the light doesn't come back on, then you just reset the mileage "flag" as it is called, and have nothing to worry about.

So, try that and see what happens. Okay.

bitey
09-10-2004, 12:41 PM
Hi. I feel a bit piggy asking you about 2 more vehicles, but since others aren't posting a lot, I will give it a try. We are in the process of trying the advice you gave for the first vehicle I asked you about and we very much appreciate the advice. Here are my 2 other questions.

1. I have a 2002 Toyota Celica. When the weather is wet or even a bit damp, the belt seems to make a terrible chirping noise. This never happens when the weather is totally dry. It is wet/damp a lot in Ohio. It makes me crazy to be driving this hot looking car with it making this terrible sound. When the car was still under warranty (it's not anymore b/c of too many miles on it), the dealership guys said that they either couldn't hear it or had no idea what is was. I have read on the Web that many 2000 and later Celicas have a problem with something called the belt tensioner and that this can cause this problem. What do you think? The car has one of those long belts (serpintine (sp?)) that goes around everything. I really want to get rid of this problem but I can't afford to spend a lot. I am asking you if you can think of other causes for this problem and whether whatever it is can be done inexpensively? The car runs fine.

2. My mother owns a 1976 Chevy Impala that has not been driven since June of 1999. It has been sitting in an unheated garage with a dead battery. I really need to sell this car. It is in good shape with only a mild scrape on the left rear side (rubbed up against the house backing out of the driveway 5+ years ago). I sort of hate to buy a new battery to put in it because I have only received a couple of really low ball offers on it. It has 58,000 total miles on it. What should I do? I need to get some money out of it but I don't even know what to ask. Please give me any advice you have as to how I should proceed. If I need to get it running again, what would I need to do besides put a battery in it?

Thank you very much for providing this great information.

SL10
09-11-2004, 12:39 PM
Ok, my turn here! I have a '98 Ford Escort SE Station Wagon, 5 speed! My problem is my brake light on the dash comes on briefly, when I accerate my car in first gear to about 20 mph before changing to second gear! What does it mean when the brake light comes on like that? Btw the car had a full brake job 2 months ago and the brakes are working great! Lastly the Emergency Brake handle is all the way down, so I know that is not the problem?

dfwtxpatrick
09-12-2004, 01:22 AM
Hi. I feel a bit piggy asking you about 2 more vehicles, but since others aren't posting a lot, I will give it a try. We are in the process of trying the advice you gave for the first vehicle I asked you about and we very much appreciate the advice. Here are my 2 other questions.

1. I have a 2002 Toyota Celica. When the weather is wet or even a bit damp, the belt seems to make a terrible chirping noise. This never happens when the weather is totally dry. It is wet/damp a lot in Ohio. It makes me crazy to be driving this hot looking car with it making this terrible sound. When the car was still under warranty (it's not anymore b/c of too many miles on it), the dealership guys said that they either couldn't hear it or had no idea what is was. I have read on the Web that many 2000 and later Celicas have a problem with something called the belt tensioner and that this can cause this problem. What do you think? The car has one of those long belts (serpintine (sp?)) that goes around everything. I really want to get rid of this problem but I can't afford to spend a lot. I am asking you if you can think of other causes for this problem and whether whatever it is can be done inexpensively? The car runs fine.

2. My mother owns a 1976 Chevy Impala that has not been driven since June of 1999. It has been sitting in an unheated garage with a dead battery. I really need to sell this car. It is in good shape with only a mild scrape on the left rear side (rubbed up against the house backing out of the driveway 5+ years ago). I sort of hate to buy a new battery to put in it because I have only received a couple of really low ball offers on it. It has 58,000 total miles on it. What should I do? I need to get some money out of it but I don't even know what to ask. Please give me any advice you have as to how I should proceed. If I need to get it running again, what would I need to do besides put a battery in it?

Thank you very much for providing this great information.


Your info on the belt tensioner is probably your answer to the problem. Or it could be the belt. You need to look at the serpentine belt and see if it has a shiny black top or is dull? The top of the belt is flat and smooth w/o ridges. The ridge side is considered the drive side. It is what fits on the grooves of the Alternator, AC Compressor, Pwr Steering, ect. If the belt is shiny or you look at the groove side and see cracks in the grooves, then you need to replace the belt. If you can't do it yourself, buy the belt from your local Auto parts store for about $25, (skip the dealer as the belt could easily cost double that.) and take it to a shop and ask them to put it on for you. Should be about $25-50 for labor. If you know someone who can do it for you, I'd offer $20 and call it a day. If you decide to do it yourself, then make sure you draw yourself a map of how it routes around the accessories listed above before you start, cause if you don't you could spend alot of time trying to figure it out. Been there, done that!

If it is the tensioner, you may have to go to the dealer and get it, but it could easily cost $100's from there, most parts store don't carry something for that new of a car, so you may be forced to the dealer. Check around Monday for the tensioner, and if it is expensive, I can save you a few bucks by getting it at my cost instead of yours. I never charge extra for the parts as I am making my money on the labor. So if your cost is $180, and I can get it for $120, you save $60 the I would ship it to you. No problem doing it if it will save you money!

As for the 76 Impala, Depending on whether it is a 2 door, 4 door or otherwise will depend on what it will be worth. You can go to WWW.NADA.COM, select CONSUMER, then look at the tabs at the top and select CLASSIC CARS, then scroll down under USED VALUES and select PASSENGER CARS, then follow the info it asks for and you will come up with a price of what the car is worth. I usually tell people to knock off about $500 if the car is considered low retail, $1000 for Average and no deductions if in the High value range. So if the car was a 1976 Impala 4 door sedan, w/ a V8 engine and a decent body, a Low retail is $1475.00 (expect $975) , while an Average retail is $3100.00 (expect $2100) and a High retail is $4600 (if the car is in excellent shape, minus the scrape, you could expect as much as $3500 to $4000). NOW! If you want to move it fast, expect to get very low offers, if anyone suspects your in a hurry to sell, they will always low ball you. If your willing to take the time to sell it to the right buyer, and it is in as good a shape as you say, you can get alot of money for the car.

If the car is a 2 door coupe, then you could see as much as $1000 more for the car than what I listed for the 4 door.

I can go on and on about this, but we would need to discuss this over the phone as there are so many variables to cover. Pls PM me and I will give you my phone number.

WHILE I COULD POST MY NUMBER HERE, I'D RATHER HAVE PEOPLE ASK FOR IT IN A PM AND I WILL BE GLAD TO RESPOND W/ THE NUMBER. I DON"T CARE WHO NEEDS IT, I'LL HELP ANYWAY I CAN. OK! JUST REMEMBER TO USE YOUR SPCS PHONE WHEN CALLING ME! THAT WAY I WON"T BURN ANYTIME MINUTES! OR AFTER 7PM CENTRAL STANDARD TIME OR ON WEEKENDS!



Ok, my turn here! I have a '98 Ford Escort SE Station Wagon, 5 speed! My problem is my brake light on the dash comes on briefly, when I accerate my car in first gear to about 20 mph before changing to second gear! What does it mean when the brake light comes on like that? Btw the car had a full brake job 2 months ago and the brakes are working great! Lastly the Emergency Brake handle is all the way down, so I know that is not the problem?

The first thing I would check is the brake fluid in the Master Cylinder. If it is low, (and alot of people forget to check it once a brake job is done!) it could cause the light to come on under acceleration, then go off once it levels off. There is a sensor in the resevoir that turns on the Brake Light on the dash when it is low. This is very common on most newer cars.

If the fluid is full, then check the wires that plug into the resevoir to ensure they are tight, cause if not, they could be loosing contact and this will turn the light on as well.
Let me know!

gage006
09-12-2004, 07:00 PM
my turn :)

85 Toyota Supra...i got in a small accident and had to replace the whole suspension setup on my front drivers side. I still haven't gotten it re-alligned but when i go over a bump or any kind of small hole in the road, it makes a terrible sound like the tire is about to fall off and the steering feels really loose. I don't notice a flat tire, loose bolts or anything. Any ideas? Would the mis-allignment have anything to do with this?

Also, i'm thinking about buying a Pontiac Grand Am or Grand Prix really soon, anything I should specifically watch out for? Reliable cars? Easy to work on ,or a pain?

Bri882
09-12-2004, 09:21 PM
Hi I have a question. I have a 90 Honda Civic and somewhere within the car there's a short, which I think is coming from the wiper switch. Whenever I hit a pothole or a speed bump or if I accidently touch the switch, the wipers come on. Now, one day when I went to start the car the wipers came on but the car wouldn't start. It made noise but it just wouldn't catch. I finally got it started and got home. Previously before this, the car wouldn't start at all. It was as if the battery was drained. After charging it for an hour, the car has worked fine up until the little episode I was taking about with the wipers. A relative suggested that replacing the entire steering column would solve the problem. My question to you is, are the wipers draining the battery? Or is it coming from the starter or somewhere else? Your feedback would be GREATLY appreciated! This is my first car and she's my baby :)

dfwtxpatrick
09-12-2004, 09:24 PM
my turn :)

85 Toyota Supra...i got in a small accident and had to replace the whole suspension setup on my front drivers side. I still haven't gotten it re-alligned but when i go over a bump or any kind of small hole in the road, it makes a terrible sound like the tire is about to fall off and the steering feels really loose. I don't notice a flat tire, loose bolts or anything. Any ideas? Would the mis-allignment have anything to do with this?

Also, i'm thinking about buying a Pontiac Grand Am or Grand Prix really soon, anything I should specifically watch out for? Reliable cars? Easy to work on ,or a pain?

First thing I would check is the strut! The noise your describing sounds like your strut blew out. Now! In case you don't know what a strut is, I'll explain. (if you do, those who don't would like to know anyway!)
The strut is a shock compressor that lessens the blow to the suspension when you hit things, like a pothole, bump, ect. When you hear what sounds like loose metal jangling around only when you hit something, this is usually the strut. The easy way to test the strut is to simply push down on the corner of the car you think may have a bad strut. Push down 2 to 3x real hard and let go. If the car bounces more than 1 or 2x, then it needs new struts.

Struts for this car average $40-50 depending on where you buy them. Putting them in is not hard if you know how. If you don't know how, DON'T do it as you could be seriously injured or killed if done wrong.

Most shops will sell them and put them in for about $100 a side. I usually charge labor of $30 - $40 a side depending on the car.


As for a Grand Am or Grand Prix. My choice would be w/ the Grand Prix. But that is my choice. They are both nice cars, but be sure to have them checked out good before buying one.

The cars are just like any other, but you have to have them checked out before you buy as you could get a great looking piece of junk!

Stay away from anything older than a 99 as they did a restyle in 99 that upgraded the motor, suspension and ect. You also need to make sure you get the V6 engine (I don't think there were anymore 4 cyl engines after 98, but can't remember)

Do yourself a favor if you do decide to get one. Take down the VIN number and do a VIN check online to see if the car has any wreck history or otherwise.

This means that if the car had been involved in an accident, then it was reported and would show up when you run the VIN through a search service like www.carfax.com. It cost something like $20, but could save you $1000's in buying a lemon. Okay!

Let me know. Good luck!

gage006
09-13-2004, 12:18 AM
ugh...not the strut!! it was a pain getting the thing in. you're probably right too...that's exactly the sound i hear *sigh* thanks for the advice at least. guess that's what i get for going to the junkyard and randomly picking a car to buy a new suspension from. hopefully i'm not in any major danger by driving around a bit with that bad strut?

thanks for the advice on the pontiac too...haven't really looked into the difference between the two but i'll definately take your advice.

dfwtxpatrick
09-13-2004, 12:54 PM
Hi I have a question. I have a 90 Honda Civic and somewhere within the car there's a short, which I think is coming from the wiper switch. Whenever I hit a pothole or a speed bump or if I accidently touch the switch, the wipers come on. Now, one day when I went to start the car the wipers came on but the car wouldn't start. It made noise but it just wouldn't catch. I finally got it started and got home. Previously before this, the car wouldn't start at all. It was as if the battery was drained. After charging it for an hour, the car has worked fine up until the little episode I was taking about with the wipers. A relative suggested that replacing the entire steering column would solve the problem. My question to you is, are the wipers draining the battery? Or is it coming from the starter or somewhere else? Your feedback would be GREATLY appreciated! This is my first car and she's my baby :)

I would'nt think you'd have to replace the whole steering column, just possibly the wiper switch. I just replaced a cylinder head on one of those last week and I can confirm that the wiper switch is very touchy.

I would trace out the wires to see if you can find a bad wire, but it is very possible that the wiper switch is shorting out in the column and yes, that can drain your battery. Check it out and let me know.

ugh...not the strut!! it was a pain getting the thing in. you're probably right too...that's exactly the sound i hear *sigh* thanks for the advice at least. guess that's what i get for going to the junkyard and randomly picking a car to buy a new suspension from. hopefully i'm not in any major danger by driving around a bit with that bad strut?

thanks for the advice on the pontiac too...haven't really looked into the difference between the two but i'll definately take your advice.


Don't worry, as long as the strut rod is in one piece, you'll be okay. You can try to check it out by turning your steering wheel hard left, turning off the car w/ the wheel that way, then see if you can try to push on the strut rod and see if it moves. If it does, I'd get it replaced soon. As long as you don't let the wheel hang off a cliff or something, you should be fine! But get it replaced soon. Okay!

optimus28
09-13-2004, 01:46 PM
I would just like to say thank you to you guys for answering these questions. Even though I may not have any problems or questions right now thank god but I have been there before and it is always nice to get somebody elses opinion and input especially when it comes to vehicles.

IceBergEB
09-14-2004, 04:15 PM
I decided to replace the 98 Intrepid, instead of fixing it. I found a great 300M, 2001, with only 34k miles. :D Thanks for answering my questions, though!

Again, you rock!!!! :cool:

dfwtxpatrick
09-14-2004, 05:06 PM
I decided to replace the 98 Intrepid, instead of fixing it. I found a great 300M, 2001, with only 34k miles. :D Thanks for answering my questions, though!

Again, you rock!!!! :cool:


Man! That's a heck of a jump, but definately a great one. Do yourself 1 favor though and go to www.carfax.com and put in your VIN number to see what it tells you. If you have more than 1 or 2 items it pulls up, (it wont tell you what they are, you'll have to pay to see it) I would definately pay to check it out and ensure your car hasn't been wrecked or water damaged or something.

Thanks for the vote of confidence, pls, everyone here, don't hesitate to ask if you have a problem. I am providing all my info free of charge and will gladly discuss anything over the phone if you PM me for my number. K!

Patrick.

gof
09-20-2004, 03:06 PM
YAQ (yet another question :) )

1999 Chevy Tahoe with premium package. Leather, electric doorlocks, etc.

Drivers side electric doorlock got sluggish about 2 years ago. Had it replaced at the dealership and it cost a fortune. Recently (actually shortly after the drivers side got sluggish), the passanger side is doing the same thing.

By sluggish I mean it seems like the selenoid is overheating quickly. Doesn't always trip fully, if you hit it more than once or twice it moves less and less each time. Sort of like a bad/weak pinball flipper :hee:

Questions are:
1. How hard are these to replace myself (I'm pretty handy, just less time these days)
2. Any tips on getting to the selenoid? I don't want to disassemble the entire door only to find out I just needed to pull a couple of screws.
3. Any suggestions on *where* to buy the switch without getting gouged?

Thanks in advance!

dbarrett5381
09-23-2004, 04:19 PM
I have a 1999 isuzu rodeo, sometimes, usually when it is really hot outside it will have kind of a sporadic idle, by that i mean that it will be idling at 800 rpm and then all of a sudden climb to about 1100 and then drop to 400 and idle rough, also it will sometimes be a little hard to start when it is cold. some times it will fire immediately, while sometimes i have to crank it for about 5 seconds for it to start. I already changed the fuel filter and that didn't help. It has 79,000 miles on it. Thanks

dbarrett5381
09-23-2004, 04:26 PM
forgot to select email replies!

dfwtxpatrick
09-25-2004, 10:42 PM
First off, I'd like to apologize for not getting to these sooner. I have been very busy this last week. I will do better to get to your questions sooner. Okay.

Pls fire away!

YAQ (yet another question :) )

1999 Chevy Tahoe with premium package. Leather, electric doorlocks, etc.

Drivers side electric doorlock got sluggish about 2 years ago. Had it replaced at the dealership and it cost a fortune. Recently (actually shortly after the drivers side got sluggish), the passanger side is doing the same thing.

By sluggish I mean it seems like the selenoid is overheating quickly. Doesn't always trip fully, if you hit it more than once or twice it moves less and less each time. Sort of like a bad/weak pinball flipper :hee:

Questions are:
1. How hard are these to replace myself (I'm pretty handy, just less time these days)
2. Any tips on getting to the selenoid? I don't want to disassemble the entire door only to find out I just needed to pull a couple of screws.
3. Any suggestions on *where* to buy the switch without getting gouged?

Thanks in advance!

Okay, the door panels are not hard to remove, just alot of screws and plastic clips to remove. Sorry, no easy way in. Once you remove the panel, you should have either a large piece of plastic or paper behind the panel you will have to remove to get to the inside of the door. Most of the door lock actuators are located just below the door handle. If your lucky, they will be bolted in, but some manufacturers rivet them in, so you would need to drill the rivet's out, then you can repl the actuator and use bolts to hold them in.

You really need to check out the problem w/ the locks as you may just need to adjust the actuator rods. If this is the case, your just out some time. If you get in there and watch them work and they don't go up and down like they should, you will need to replace them.

As for how much and where to get them. I would first start w/ a local junk yard. Some will not sell the parts if the doors are good as they will have to lower their price and thus, not make as much money.

If you can get them, expect to pay anywhere from $20 to $60 per unit. New ones can run into the $100 dollar range at a dealer. You may be able to find some new aftermarket ones at a car alarm installer and they are usually cheaper labor than dealers to have them installed.

Check it out and let me know!


I have a 1999 isuzu rodeo, sometimes, usually when it is really hot outside it will have kind of a sporadic idle, by that i mean that it will be idling at 800 rpm and then all of a sudden climb to about 1100 and then drop to 400 and idle rough, also it will sometimes be a little hard to start when it is cold. some times it will fire immediately, while sometimes i have to crank it for about 5 seconds for it to start. I already changed the fuel filter and that didn't help. It has 79,000 miles on it. Thanks


Start w/ your battery, battery cables and alternator. If you have a multimeter, you can check them out yourself. Just check to see what the voltage on the battery is while vehicle is off, doors closed and ignition in the off position. You should have 12.5 to 13.5 volts w/ nothing running.

If this checks out, have someone start the Rodeo while your holding the leads on the battery posts. You should read no less than 10.5 volts while it cranks over. If it goes below this, you may need a new battery.

If this checks out, while vehicle is running, check the posts again and you should be seeing 13.5 to 16 volts. If this checks out, then you have to have the vehicle checked out.

Or, if you cannot check it out, you can have them checked at just about any auto parts store for free. If you can find AutoZone, they will do the checks for free. Here are a few locations in Salt Lake City.

55 North 900 West
Salt Lake City, UT 84116
(801) 532-0090

1290 S. Redwood Rd.
Salt Lake City, UT 84104
(801) 886-2123

939 S State Street
Salt Lake City, UT 84111
(801) 532-1919

3750 S State St
S Salt Lake City, UT 84115
(801) 262-4448

So, start there, make sure the battery is working properly, the terminals are clean and the alternator is working properly. If this is not the problem, you'll need to get back w/ me and I will give you somemore ideas. K!

Take care ya'll and keep the questions coming.

PM me if you'd like to chat about a problem and I'll give ya my mobile #. K?

Patrick.

Ebonyjess
09-25-2004, 11:51 PM
Thank you soooo much for your help.. I haven't had the chance to run to a mechanic yet because of my hectic semester but aI will definetly print out your suggestions! :)

Yes the oil was tapped out at the time but it was only for about 8 hours.. it was parked for 7h45m of it, lol.. and it got a nice taste of 3 bottles of oil...

Yes, I still have the "ticking" problem but since the weather's been getting a bit cooler, it doesn't happen as often. (I think it has something to do with the temp. outside). And no, the engine's never overheated.. I take care, well.. I try to take the best care I can of it.

Cmdr.Awesome
09-26-2004, 05:14 PM
I have a 2000 Nissan Altima and wanted to know two things neighborhood mechanic. How much would it be to put in tints (the mirror looking like type) for my windows and how much would be a good price to pay for four new tires?

dfwtxpatrick
09-27-2004, 06:54 AM
I have a 2000 Nissan Altima and wanted to know two things neighborhood mechanic. How much would it be to put in tints (the mirror looking like type) for my windows and how much would be a good price to pay for four new tires?


Depending on where you go, you could end up paying anywhere from $150.00 to $300.00 for tint. You will also need to find out if the mirror tint is legal in NY state. Most states have outlawed mirror tint due to the high possibility it can blind drivers in other cars w/ the reflection of the sun.

Make sure where ever you go for tint, they are a licensed tint installer and have a lifetime warranty on the tint and if they charge an extra 10% for lifetime warranty on the labor, then go for it. Otherwise, it could cost you as much to have it removed as it will to have it installed if there is a problem w/the tint down the road. If you know someone who can tint, or say they can, ask to see some of their work before you let them do your car. Ok.

As for tires, you can easily spend $120 per tire if you want to. If you have the factory rims on the the car, and don't want any real specialty tires, such as low profiles or the new colored (yes, they now have red, blue, green and other color tires) series out there, I'd be ready to pay about $200 - $300 for a good set of tires.

I suggest Wal-Mart for your tires, as they offer really good tires for a very good price, they also offer complete road hazard coverage for $10 per tire (thats over the cost of the tire), but if you go anywhere in the US, and have a flat, or it blows out, all you have to do is go to any Wal-Mart and they will fix or replace the tire. Beats getting your tire from the corner tire store and being in another state and have to pay again for a flat or something.

Hope this info helps.

Cmdr.Awesome
09-28-2004, 12:21 AM
^^You the man

Marlon_JB2
09-29-2004, 10:59 PM
This isn't really a problem, but.....

My new Jeep (yeah, I dumped the Mitsubishi (I saw brake fluid ON 3 wheels one morning), mom decided to help me buy a new vehicle) has what is called HOAT coolant. It's orange.... exactly what is this stuff? The owners manual isn't very descriptive, but it says that it can last 100,000 miles. I DON'T trust these extended maintenance interval gimmicks. Is this stuff for real?

Nugo
09-29-2004, 11:17 PM
Hope this hasn't been asked already.

I have a 2000 Malibu. The engine light just came on, but all gauges look normal and the car seems fine. It came on at about 98,600 miles, and I've heard that some of these cars are programmed to come on at certain mileage intervals to remind you that it's a general time for servicing. What would you do?

Jay02xBlazer
09-30-2004, 01:20 PM
Hope this hasn't been asked already.

I have a 2000 Malibu. The engine light just came on, but all gauges look normal and the car seems fine. It came on at about 98,600 miles, and I've heard that some of these cars are programmed to come on at certain mileage intervals to remind you that it's a general time for servicing. What would you do?


drop by the nearest autozone and have them pull the codes from the computer if it is a genric code have them reset it... some codes come on a as warning you some thing is not right and if you ingonre it. the issues could cause a lot of damage to fix

Jay

dfwtxpatrick
09-30-2004, 10:32 PM
This isn't really a problem, but.....

My new Jeep (yeah, I dumped the Mitsubishi (I saw brake fluid ON 3 wheels one morning), mom decided to help me buy a new vehicle) has what is called HOAT coolant. It's orange.... exactly what is this stuff? The owners manual isn't very descriptive, but it says that it can last 100,000 miles. I DON'T trust these extended maintenance interval gimmicks. Is this stuff for real?

The orange coolant is a new type that is longer lasting than the green stuff. GM was the first US car maker to introduce it back in 95 or so as an alternative to the green stuff. It has better coolant properties and seems to make a difference in high heat areas such as TEXAS here.

Believe it or not, Time breaks it down more than mileage does. It is supposed to be good for 100,000 miles or 5 yrs. But I recommend 75k, or 3 yrs, whichever comes first. A little early maintenance is better than what is recommended anyway. Okay!



Hope this hasn't been asked already.

I have a 2000 Malibu. The engine light just came on, but all gauges look normal and the car seems fine. It came on at about 98,600 miles, and I've heard that some of these cars are programmed to come on at certain mileage intervals to remind you that it's a general time for servicing. What would you do?
drop by the nearest autozone and have them pull the codes from the computer if it is a genric code have them reset it... some codes come on a as warning you some thing is not right and if you ingonre it. the issues could cause a lot of damage to fix

Jay

Jay's got it! Always better to check it out now, as he said, it could cause more damage down the road and cost you alot more. AutoZone does check the codes for free and they can erase them so the light goes off. Let me know what codes you get and I'll tell you what you need to do. K!

Patrick.

tbakergobucks
09-30-2004, 11:27 PM
I have a 1991 honda accord ex it has 184,500 on it. It still runs pretty good. I've been getting my car and my girls honda serviced on the side by a friend of a friend that works at a honda dealership. He's pretty good and I think he's been giving me good deals.

I have a few questions

what's the sugested amount of miles to change your timing belt. I think the prior owner had it done around 80,000 or 90,000. I think it's supposed to be done around 180,000? Should I drive it untill it breaks or get it fixed asap or buy a another car. lol kiding. How much do you think for parts and labor for a side job?

I had a tune up and mechanic notice my rear spring is busted. Car drives ok should I get it replaced. How much do you think for parts and labor for a side job?

Don't laugh but this is the only bad thing with my car right now. When I put it in reverse my car vibrates a little and makes a little noise. It doesn't happen all the time. The car I think has a after market hood because of a wreck if thats what you call it and it contributes to the rattling noise. Do you know what's causing this? Worth fixing? How much?

Once or twice a week in the morning my car takes three or four starts before it stays on. Check engine light stays on which I turn the car off and back on and it goes off. Any idea what it is? How much?

I got the car for 1500 a year and half ago and for the most part I've just put new tires and exhust on it. It's been a good car. How many miles do you think it has left?

thanks a lot and if your tired of answering car questions I understand

Jay02xBlazer
10-01-2004, 08:46 AM
I have a 1991 honda accord ex it has 184,500 on it. It still runs pretty good. I've been getting my car and my girls honda serviced on the side by a friend of a friend that works at a honda dealership. He's pretty good and I think he's been giving me good deals.

I have a few questions

what's the sugested amount of miles to change your timing belt. I think the prior owner had it done around 80,000 or 90,000. I think it's supposed to be done around 180,000? Should I drive it untill it breaks or get it fixed asap or buy a another car. lol kiding. How much do you think for parts and labor for a side job?

I had a tune up and mechanic notice my rear spring is busted. Car drives ok should I get it replaced. How much do you think for parts and labor for a side job?

Don't laugh but this is the only bad thing with my car right now. When I put it in reverse my car vibrates a little and makes a little noise. It doesn't happen all the time. The car I think has a after market hood because of a wreck if thats what you call it and it contributes to the rattling noise. Do you know what's causing this? Worth fixing? How much?

Once or twice a week in the morning my car takes three or four starts before it stays on. Check engine light stays on which I turn the car off and back on and it goes off. Any idea what it is? How much?

I got the car for 1500 a year and half ago and for the most part I've just put new tires and exhust on it. It's been a good car. How many miles do you think it has left?

thanks a lot and if your tired of answering car questions I understand


First off to answer about dex-cool the orange antifreeze is that if it gets a little low and air gets in the cooling system the antifreeze will break down turning to a rust color and clumps up causeing issues i have the orange stuff in my 98 s10 and have never had a problem i have changed it a couple times and have 130,000 on the clock I personally dont have issues with dex-cool although i know a lot of people do

tbakergobucks

replace that timing belt ASAP when the honda belts break they will bend/break valves in the head then means a whole new head job or such parts to also be replaced should be waterpump, all acc. belts, cam seal, a anthor seal cant think of the name that should be it parts vary depending on place of purchase dealer will be tons higher... just make sure you get quality parts... the reason i say to replace all those other parts is cause of you wil have them out anyways might as well replace them....


rear spring is busted get it fixed it if it was to break you will poss loos control of the car

the hood rattling i would have to look at it to see what i could think of or hear it

the starting issues i truelly would not have a clue would have to witness it

Jay

Patrick
would you have any advice for someone trying to get into the car repair business and that is knowledgeable about things the only problem is that i dont have any ASE certs would you have any suggestions

Thanks

Jay

Marlon_JB2
10-01-2004, 03:11 PM
First off to answer about dex-cool the orange antifreeze is that if it gets a little low and air gets in the cooling system the antifreeze will break down turning to a rust color and clumps up causeing issues i have the orange stuff in my 98 s10 and have never had a problem i have changed it a couple times and have 130,000 on the clock I personally dont have issues with dex-cool although i know a lot of people do



Uh huh........ http://www.gm-v6lemons.com

I, personally have never heard of any problems with the orange coolant other than with the GM V6 car engines (I don't think the truck engines are affected). My cousin has also had with that problem with his Montana.

Nugo
10-01-2004, 08:00 PM
Thanks patrick; cars just never were my game, man. I'd drive a Yugo or a Jag, whatever.

Noodle
10-01-2004, 08:27 PM
how can you get a passenger door open to fix the locking mech. My car got towed a few months back (yes it was my fault for the tow being in a tow away zone) anyway the screwed up my lock on my passenger door. The lock itself looks like it's unlocked but the door won't open.

I hate my car but it get's me from a to b. 96 Metro I got for free when I wrecked my old car.

dfwtxpatrick
10-02-2004, 01:51 PM
I'll be answering these questions later, didn't forget about ya'll. Cable was knocked out from a heavy rain storm and just checking to see what is going on.

I'll be back later.

Patrick

d_sokudo
10-03-2004, 12:19 PM
I got a '89 pontiac sunbird, 2.0l, no turbo. 109K miles on it. Got it in pretty good condition with 85k on it a year or so ago back.
For the most part it's running good. Did some work recently, tune up stuff, plugs, wires, oil, etc. Car always starts on the first turn. (even in winter, I'm in wisconson.) I've done regular maintenance on the car, i'm like the 3rd owner of it. The second owner barely drove it. Which explains why i had to replace all the brakes and shocks when i got it! (rusted/corroded)
The problem i'm having is that the check light comes on, stays on for about 10 sec then goes off, while driving. It doesn't do it all the time just randomly.
but it's always the same, light goes on (while driving) approx 10sec, light goes off. I've seen the light come on once, while sitting idle, but within that 10 sec window it goes out. So far this has been going on for about a week or so. No change, and the frequency of the light coming on has not increased (yet.).
No power loss, no gagues going mental, temp is fine all around, no stutter.
the only odd thing is that idle is sometimes, rough. not terribly so. Got one friend suggests that it could be an oxygen sensor. Since the slightly variable idle is the only tell-tale sign.
A second opinion or somewhere to check would be appreciate.

Thanks.

dfwtxpatrick
10-03-2004, 08:59 PM
how can you get a passenger door open to fix the locking mech. My car got towed a few months back (yes it was my fault for the tow being in a tow away zone) anyway the screwed up my lock on my passenger door. The lock itself looks like it's unlocked but the door won't open.

I hate my car but it get's me from a to b. 96 Metro I got for free when I wrecked my old car.

It's very possible the door lock isn't the problem, the handle usually breaks inside the door and this would stop you from being able to open it. Can you open it from the inside? If so, you'll just need a new outside handle. If not, then you need to check the actual door lock. If the door wont open, you'll need to try to pull the panel off while it is closed. If it is the back door, simply remove the bottom seat cushion and you'll be able to get the panel off w/o much problem.

If it is the front door, you actually may need to remove the front seat and then you'll be able to get the panel off. I have a 94 Metro in my back yard and it looks like both panels will come off w/o much problem. Okay.

Noodle
10-03-2004, 09:08 PM
no the indside handle will move but it acts like it's locked even though the actuall lock switch shows it's unlocked and the key won't work either (doesn't even move) I'll look into getting the panel off. Thanks for the info.

dfwtxpatrick
10-07-2004, 10:33 PM
no the indside handle will move but it acts like it's locked even though the actuall lock switch shows it's unlocked and the key won't work either (doesn't even move) I'll look into getting the panel off. Thanks for the info.


It really sounds like the childproof locking mechanism is also engaged, but by removing the panel, you'll be able to see what is happening. Let me know.

bitey
10-31-2004, 09:22 PM
Here I am asking you about our 1995 Ford Windstar again. It has been running fine until yesterday morning. My partner went out, started the van (no problem here, we got a new battery recently), and after a few seconds of starting ok, it died. This pattern was repeated a number of times. It starts easily but then dies. Suggestions? We can't afford to take it in for any sort of "full diagnostic" so I would welcome any questions/suggestions you might have. Thanks, patrick.

TknCareOfBsnss
10-31-2004, 09:38 PM
for the record i shot my oldsmobile and bought an 01 explorer.

dfwtxpatrick
10-31-2004, 10:27 PM
Here I am asking you about our 1995 Ford Windstar again. It has been running fine until yesterday morning. My partner went out, started the van (no problem here, we got a new battery recently), and after a few seconds of starting ok, it died. This pattern was repeated a number of times. It starts easily but then dies. Suggestions? We can't afford to take it in for any sort of "full diagnostic" so I would welcome any questions/suggestions you might have. Thanks, patrick.


Okay, has this happend before?

Several things come to mind for this problem.

1) Check to make sure no one backed into your van in the back. The Fords have a sensor located under the rear bumper that deactivates your fuel pump if there is a rearend collision. You didn't even have to be in the van or have it running for this to take effect. If you look behind one of the storage holders where the jack is (usually on passenger side near tail light inside.) and you should see a small hole that you can stick your finger in and push down on the red plunger. This will reactivate your fuel pump. (AGAIN, if this is the problem)

2) The fuel pump could have gone out. They are installed inside the gas tank and must be removed by lowering the fuel tank. If you attempt this yourselves, make sure you disconnect the battery, make sure the tank is near empty if possible, cause it will be heavy, even w/ just a few gallons of gas in it.

3) Check all of your fuses under the dash and hood. You should find a fuse for the fuel pump. Remove it, make sure the two blades are clean and turn it around and put it back in. See if this works.

4) There is a part on the intake that is called an Idle Air Intake valve. This could have stuck open or closed and this will either reduce the air (closed) or give the engine too much air (open) and it wont run right. If you need to know what it looks like, go to the nearest parts store and ask them for the part so you can look at it, get some carburetor cleaner while there, go home and then remove it and make sure it slides up and down freely. If it doesn't, spray some carb cleaner on it, move it up and down until it moves freely, then spray some WD-30 on it to keep it moving good.

If none of these help, let me know and we can go from there. Okay.

GoRams08
10-31-2004, 10:32 PM
Hey I have two questions for ya,

1. My friend has a remote start system installed on his '00 Civic SI. We were talking about cars the other day and someone mentioned that those remote start systems are not very good for your car. Is this true? Why/why not?

2. I have a '04 MB C240 Sedan. I have a slight problem with my Airbag indicator light. Like around the first week of Sept. I took the car to the carwash and had it done as usual, and about like three blocks away from the carwash, my SRS light went on (didn't hit a pothole or bump or anything to trigger the airbags, and they have never deployed even though I've been in 2 accidents, prior to this). The screen in the instrument panel says: "1 Malfunction" when I start the car and when I scroll to the system status screen it shows "SRS Failure". I have a crazy class schedule this semester and I haven't had the chance to visit the dealership. The indicator just goes off on its own periodically, but it comes back. I read your tip on resetting indicators, but I'm not a very handy person so I don't want to mess with that stuff, plus since I'm under warranty, I just have to make some space in my schedule to get down to the MB dealership.
Another thing with the same car, on Thursday I was just driving around and all of a sudden my audio system went down completely. I have the upgraded Bose system, only the center front speaker is working as we speak. Someone advised me to check the fuse box, but I can't find it lol. The owner's manual is back at home (I'm living on campus). It's not in the usual place, by the driver's door, it's not in the glovebox or anywhere else that I have looked. I can't wait till february when this lease is up!

dfwtxpatrick
12-11-2004, 07:52 AM
Ladies and Gentlemen,

I have been very busy lately so I haven't posted anything new here. I have gotten PM's for people I've helped in the past, but I am here to offer assistance to ANYONE who might need it.

The charge is FREE! No payments, offers of payment or otherwise will be accepted. Please feel free to ask your questions. I will do my best to answer in a timely fashion and get you info if I don't have it.

I usually check this forum in the early morning hours before hitting the shop to fix cars.

So, pls ask, and I will do my best. If I don't have the answer, I'll try to find it or point you in the right direction. Okay?

Thanks for the opportunity to help out!

Patrick

rlm22b
12-11-2004, 09:05 AM
I have a 2000 Monte Carlo. The wiper occasionally stops working. Due to the bar the connects to the motor becoming detached from the motor. It is currently rigged up with some paper so it doesn't slide off. The bar snaps on to a ball the sit on top of the motor.

Drapers said it would be at least $40, and that is just to reconnect something if has become disconnected. The bar itself costs $91. This is just mark up though, I have an uncle who works for GM so he can order it for $30. What do you suggest?

dfwtxpatrick
12-11-2004, 01:30 PM
I have a 2000 Monte Carlo. The wiper occasionally stops working. Due to the bar the connects to the motor becoming detached from the motor. It is currently rigged up with some paper so it doesn't slide off. The bar snaps on to a ball the sit on top of the motor.

Drapers said it would be at least $40, and that is just to reconnect something if has become disconnected. The bar itself costs $91. This is just mark up though, I have an uncle who works for GM so he can order it for $30. What do you suggest?

I would suggest that you get the wiper fixed. If he can get you the part for a larger discount, go ahead and get it. The inside of the bar usually has a plastic retainer that snaps over the head of the motor and this is what hold everything together. If you have any mechanic skills what so ever, you can do this yourself and save the money for a beer and pizza.

If you have an autozone in your area, or any parts store has shop manuals that can help you out in this department.

Try to get the Haynes Manual as they are simplified and show more.

If you need any other advice, pls let me know.

Patrick.

mcurtiss1970
01-18-2005, 04:40 PM
ok, weird question: my automatic radio car antenna is frozen in the down position (likely due to freezing rain followed by very cold weather). any ideas? hair dryer? wait until March?

Marlon_JB2
01-18-2005, 04:45 PM
Dad used to do that with a hair dryer...

Trest
01-18-2005, 06:18 PM
First off to answer about dex-cool the orange antifreeze is that if it gets a little low and air gets in the cooling system the antifreeze will break down turning to a rust color and clumps up causeing issues i have the orange stuff in my 98 s10 and have never had a problem i have changed it a couple times and have 130,000 on the clock I personally dont have issues with dex-cool although i know a lot of people do

tbakergobucks

replace that timing belt ASAP when the honda belts break they will bend/break valves in the head then means a whole new head job or such parts to also be replaced should be waterpump, all acc. belts, cam seal, a anthor seal cant think of the name that should be it parts vary depending on place of purchase dealer will be tons higher... just make sure you get quality parts... the reason i say to replace all those other parts is cause of you wil have them out anyways might as well replace them....


rear spring is busted get it fixed it if it was to break you will poss loos control of the car

the hood rattling i would have to look at it to see what i could think of or hear it

the starting issues i truelly would not have a clue would have to witness it

Jay

Patrick
would you have any advice for someone trying to get into the car repair business and that is knowledgeable about things the only problem is that i dont have any ASE certs would you have any suggestions

Thanks

Jay



Seriously, start off as a Lube Tech at a decent lot. Preferably something in the midrange-low high standings (caddilac lincon buick (GM pays the best in the longrun tho. Esp caddy.). Lube techs at dealers dont make that bad of cash and what you dont know you can learn from the techs around you. But heres the big catch, most dealers will pay for your certs as long as you pass the test. Dealerships are very big on promoting within and homegrown talent. Ive seen 3 kids do it at our dealership. I started parking cars myself now im warranty administrator waiting for someone to retire so i can move up again.

Jay02xBlazer
01-19-2005, 04:54 AM
ok, weird question: my automatic radio car antenna is frozen in the down position (likely due to freezing rain followed by very cold weather). any ideas? hair dryer? wait until March?

Hair Dryer Might work but what i would be afriad of is the antenna strippping out.... personally i would try and thaw it out and see it you could get it up

Jay

mcurtiss1970
01-20-2005, 08:15 AM
ok, so now the sun is kinda warm, so i think it may thaw out by this afternoon. is there something I can put on the antenna so it won't happen again? lithium grease? silica goo? flubber? plasma?

ssaifull
01-21-2005, 08:01 PM
I need some advice! I have a 90 Olds Cutlass Supreme. During the extreme cold here in MI, it wouldn't start after not starting it a couple days. The car has stalled on me several times over the past year. I call AAA to get it jumped and it took a lot of effort to successfully jump it, but we got it jumped. We let it run for 30 minutes as recommended. The next morning it wouldn't start and we had to get it jumped again.

Two days later, the car stalls on me while i'm at a stop light. I had the heat and radio on. I then got the battery replaced with a new DieHard battery.It starts up very nicely and I drive the car home from the shop (1 hr. drive) and while coming off the expressway and coming to a stop at my exit, the car stalls, even with the new battery! I shut off the heat and radio immediately right away, and it starts up without much trouble. As you can see, driving like this is very dangerous. I was thinking it was the starter, but i don't hear the tell-tale 'clicking' noise when i try to start my car. One friend says it may be a electronic chip in the car which controls the power that may be faulty. What is your take dfwtxpatrick?

fever
01-21-2005, 08:51 PM
Alternator. But wait for the pros...

fever

rlm22b
01-21-2005, 08:56 PM
I would suggest that you get the wiper fixed. If he can get you the part for a larger discount, go ahead and get it. The inside of the bar usually has a plastic retainer that snaps over the head of the motor and this is what hold everything together. If you have any mechanic skills what so ever, you can do this yourself and save the money for a beer and pizza.

If you have an autozone in your area, or any parts store has shop manuals that can help you out in this department.

Try to get the Haynes Manual as they are simplified and show more.

If you need any other advice, pls let me know.

Patrick.

Forgot about this thread. Got it fixed awhile ago now. Me and my uncle ended up fixing it. Thanks anyway though Patrick :)

Marlon_JB2
01-21-2005, 10:50 PM
Alternator. But wait for the pros...

fever
No pros needed, those are definitely signs of a dead alternator OR voltage regulator... which usually requires replacement of the alternator. :)

dfwtxpatrick
01-23-2005, 10:38 PM
I need some advice! I have a 90 Olds Cutlass Supreme. During the extreme cold here in MI, it wouldn't start after not starting it a couple days. The car has stalled on me several times over the past year. I call AAA to get it jumped and it took a lot of effort to successfully jump it, but we got it jumped. We let it run for 30 minutes as recommended. The next morning it wouldn't start and we had to get it jumped again.

Two days later, the car stalls on me while i'm at a stop light. I had the heat and radio on. I then got the battery replaced with a new DieHard battery.It starts up very nicely and I drive the car home from the shop (1 hr. drive) and while coming off the expressway and coming to a stop at my exit, the car stalls, even with the new battery! I shut off the heat and radio immediately right away, and it starts up without much trouble. As you can see, driving like this is very dangerous. I was thinking it was the starter, but i don't hear the tell-tale 'clicking' noise when i try to start my car. One friend says it may be a electronic chip in the car which controls the power that may be faulty. What is your take dfwtxpatrick?

As mentioned above, I too believe your alternator is shorting out and this is draining the battery.

A little automotive info here: (pls understand this is very simplified for the novice among us!)

Battery : Box device used for storing electrical power to turn starter over when key is placed in the start position. After engine is running, this device is no longer needed due to alternator. (see below)

Starter : Mechanical device used for taking power from battery and using it to turn starter so that it can engage the engine and cause it to rotate, thus causing combustion and then engine will run on its own.

Alternator : Electrical mechanical device used to create electricity to run engine once battery has made starter turn engine over to create combustion and keep engine running.

Now, if the alternator has a malfunction, such as cannot provide power any longer, the battery picks up the slack until it too loses power and then car will die as it no longer has electricity to power the engine, lights, heater, radio, ect.

Most likely your alternator has been dead for awhile and this is why it is dying on you. Most auto parts stores can actually test the alternator while still on the car for you. This service is usually free and only takes about 10 minutes from the time they pull out the device until diagnosis is complete.

Now, from the stores around here, I have compiled a cost list of what your alternator will approximately cost you. This will all depend on what type of engine you have and accessories in car.

If you have an AutoZone near you, you can go there and get 1 of 3 choices.

They range from $89 to $119 depending on warranty period.

The $89 one has a 1 yr warranty and after that 1 yr is up, if it goes, you will have to buy a new one.

If you buy the $109 or $119 part, they both include a lifetime warranty for as long as you own the car. This means that if it goes bad 5 yrs down the road, they will swap out a new one for you at no charge to you.

Now, that means you will have to remove the old one, bring it in for a core (ie, old part for new one) or pay a core charge of $30. This means if you buy the $89 part and don't have your old one, they will charge you $119 and when you bring the old one back, they will refund you $30.

If you bring in the old one at the time of purchase, you will only pay $89 + taxes and they will keep your old one to send back to the factory to refurbish it and sell it again.

If you buy the $109 or $119 alternator, there is also a $30 core charge, but you wont every have to pay for it again if it goes out.

Now most parts stores will not install the part. Unless you have a PepBoys or such. But most Automotive repair shops will want you to buy the alternator from them so they can mark it up to make a little bit of money ontop of the installation charge you will need to pay.

Hope the info helps and gets your running like normal again.

Nugo
01-25-2005, 04:22 PM
Wirelessly posted (A680: Mozilla/4.0 (MobilePhone PM-8200/US/1.0) NetFront/3.1 MMP/2.0)

I took a hard u-turna few minutes ago and lost my power steering. I pulled over and everything looks ok. . . no obvious leaks and belt is fine, and no reason to believe that a sudden turn should affect pump anyway. . . I can handle it but it's gonna get tiring. any ideas? 2000 Malibu

R2X
01-25-2005, 07:14 PM
My 90 Taurus Sho's throw out berring and water pump went out. How much should i expect to pay, and should i replace the whole clutch or just the throw out?

dfwtxpatrick
01-28-2005, 03:08 PM
Wirelessly posted (A680: Mozilla/4.0 (MobilePhone PM-8200/US/1.0) NetFront/3.1 MMP/2.0)

I took a hard u-turna few minutes ago and lost my power steering. I pulled over and everything looks ok. . . no obvious leaks and belt is fine, and no reason to believe that a sudden turn should affect pump anyway. . . I can handle it but it's gonna get tiring. any ideas? 2000 Malibu

If the belt is fine, then most likely your rack and pinion (R&P) steering went out. I've seen where a hard u turn could actually cause the R&P to stick or actually break inside. You may try loosening the lines going to the R&P and see if you get fluid to drip out of it. If one side does, but the other doesn't, then you may have a stuck or broken R&P.

Being for a 2000 malibu, I can assure you the cost will be upwards of $500-$600 in parts and labor to fix the problem.

Watch for leakage as well if you don't get it fixed. This could drip onto your exhaust system and smoke and possibly cause a fire.

Let me know!



My 90 Taurus Sho's throw out berring and water pump went out. How much should i expect to pay, and should i replace the whole clutch or just the throw out?


If your gonna get into it and change the throw out bearing, then do the whole thing or you could be back in there in a short time. However, it is possible that someone replaced the clutch, w/o doing the bearing and this is what caused the bearing to go out in the first place. Always do the whole thing as a penny saved in this cause will cost dollars more later. The total cost of the job could be anywhere from $350-800. Just depends on who you have do it!


Your water pump isn't as hard and will probably be about $200-300 for a shop to do it. I'd look around and see what the different shops will charge. But as you've heard before, you get what you pay for. So be careful and check out who your thinking about working on your car.

brooklynyte
01-28-2005, 03:52 PM
Hey hows it goin, I used to be training to be a mechanic before I left that shop to go to another one, now I'm an assembler. So now I need your opinion. I have a 1995 dodge caravan and the colder it is outside, the less the heat works, someone had said to try a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator. But what could it be? The core? I do notice that the heater works better when I'm sitting idle rather than driving, so common sense says that the radiator is getting cooled off too quickly by the air pushing through the grill while driving. What do you suggest? I appreciate this man. Between te weather and my schedule I just havent had time to go to my old shop to ask my friends. Thanks!!

dfwtxpatrick
01-30-2005, 09:47 AM
Hey hows it goin, I used to be training to be a mechanic before I left that shop to go to another one, now I'm an assembler. So now I need your opinion. I have a 1995 dodge caravan and the colder it is outside, the less the heat works, someone had said to try a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator. But what could it be? The core? I do notice that the heater works better when I'm sitting idle rather than driving, so common sense says that the radiator is getting cooled off too quickly by the air pushing through the grill while driving. What do you suggest? I appreciate this man. Between te weather and my schedule I just havent had time to go to my old shop to ask my friends. Thanks!!


For the most part, what your being told is correct. I know it's been very cold up there and this can affect how well your heating system is working.

First off, you may need to replace your thermostat as it could be malfunctioning and open way too soon. Or it might not even be there. People tend to remove the thermostat in the summer cause they think it will let their car run cooler during the summer. This is not the case w/ new cars. Also newer cars are designed to run at a certain temperature to manage the entire engine. If it runs too cool, it can severly lower your gas mileage as well.

Simply replace the thermostat and gasket. Make sure you get what is recommended for your vehicle. In NY, the temp doesn't get as hot as here in Texas and so you can run the 195 degree thermostat. You can get these both for about $6-8 and a gallon of antifreeze. Make sure it is not the 50/50 version as this has water added to it.

On your van, the thermostat is easy to get to and doesn't require alot of tools.

If you replace the thermostat and your still not getting as hot as you would like to inside the van, simply do as stated earlier and place a cardboard box covering about 1/2 to 2/3 of the radiator. Make sure to leave some of it uncovered as you will need air to come through when sitting at idle. Okay.

Hope this helps and let me know.

brooklynyte
01-30-2005, 01:39 PM
I'll let you know what happens, thanks man.

Nugo
01-30-2005, 08:23 PM
Patrick, this sucks. I'm gonna have to take a chance on the fire (dam I'd look hot going down the interstate all ablaze) but I think I'll have my landlord take a look at it...he's pretty handy with this stuff...all I know is my arms are dying now

dfwtxpatrick
02-01-2005, 08:13 PM
I'll let you know what happens, thanks man.

No problem, that is why I started this thread. To help those who I can help!

Patrick, this sucks. I'm gonna have to take a chance on the fire (dam I'd look hot going down the interstate all ablaze) but I think I'll have my landlord take a look at it...he's pretty handy with this stuff...all I know is my arms are dying now

Hopefully it wont come down to blazing down the highway. And I bet those biceps are bulging, huh?

Let me know what he tells you.

Patrick

semiconductorK
06-09-2005, 02:16 PM
I am replacing the alternator on a 1990 toyota camry and am having trouble getting one of the bolts loose. I have never done this before and have not done too many things on a car so if you could also elaborate on how a lay person can do it the right way, it would also be appreciated.
thanks,
semiconductorK

vikingjunior
06-09-2005, 04:34 PM
There is a terrible squeaking noise in the front and back when I hit just the littlest of bumps, it almost sounds like the frame or springs are rusty or old. Is there something I can lubricate to get rid of this squeaking?

It is a 89 olds.

atmachine
06-10-2005, 12:06 PM
i have a 2000 intrepid, i was told that the head gasket was out how much does it usually cost, and is it safe to drive for 5 min (from where i work), p.s thanks this thrtred is great

SuperG
06-20-2005, 09:21 PM
dfwtxpatrick,

I was wondering if you could give me some advice. I have a 2002 Toyota Camry 4d, and have the factory alarm installed on it. However, for some reason, the alarm will just go off randomly. Recently it has been going off multiple times of the day and worse at night. It has become so bad, that one neighboor has threatened legal action if not corrected. I was just wondering, what would be causing this, and what could I do to fix it? Also, it is not like someone is touching it or anything, I have even seen it myself go off just by itself, without any interaction. Thank you for taking the time out to help.

SuperG

iddibhai
06-23-2005, 02:14 AM
electrical connection somewhere might be awry... our 2002 camry, the dealer had a installed a loose ground or something, that, over 3 or so times while traveling, cut out ignition power (all electrical things would work, CD, lights, seats, but no crank) after getting in the car on different occasions. Very pissed off, I called TMCUSA, with faxes from all three dealers (traveling across country) to them, detailing what was fixed under warranty (just a fuse). Finally they figured out there was a loose connection somewhere or the other, and fixed it. So far so good. I would suspect something similar.

fmc3
07-05-2005, 02:47 PM
The vehicle in question here is a 99 Toyota Tacoma. It is a 4cyl enginer. The problem is that it wont start sometimes. You turn the key and it just clicks, engine wont turn over. Seems to be the click from the solenoid or something of that sort. If you keep trying it will eventually start up and run pretty good. Also, it seems to be a bit sluggish since I have had this problem. I'm usually pretty good with solving these problems, but this one seems to have stumped me. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Marlon_JB2
07-05-2005, 04:51 PM
Sounds like a bad starter solenoid. May require replacement of the solenoid or starter.

Patrick?

dfwtxpatrick
07-05-2005, 05:56 PM
The vehicle in question here is a 99 Toyota Tacoma. It is a 4cyl enginer. The problem is that it wont start sometimes. You turn the key and it just clicks, engine wont turn over. Seems to be the click from the solenoid or something of that sort. If you keep trying it will eventually start up and run pretty good. Also, it seems to be a bit sluggish since I have had this problem. I'm usually pretty good with solving these problems, but this one seems to have stumped me. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!


I have to agree w/ Bored Jeep. Sounds like your Starter may be going. Also, if your getting rough running after this happens, then it could be that the starter is shorting out and trying to kill your battery and alternator.

Since you have a 99, DO NOT, attempt to remove the battery cables once the vehicle is running to see if the alt is working properly.

You can go to a parts store in your area and ask them to test your starter, alternator and battery. The parts stores like Advance, AutoZone, ect will usually test your system for free.

If your not around one of the parts stores, use a Multi-Meter to see what kind of drag the starter is pulling on the battery.

If your a beginner, here's how to do it. If your not a beginner, others who read this will appreciate it.

Key OFF - Place the red positive wire from a MultiMeter on the positive side of your battery, and the black negative wire on the negative side of your battery. You should read between 12.5 to 14.5 volts DC on the meter. While holding these leads on the battery, have someone turn the car over and see how much the multi meter changes. It should not drop down below 10.5 or 10 volts DC. If it does, then your starter is pulling too much power to start.

If the battery drops way down, to say 5 or 6 volts DC, the your battery is going bad.

Now, if you test the battery and it says 12.5 to 14.5 volts, and you turn the key and it clicks, and the battery doesn't drop, you simply have a bad or dirty connection on one of the terminals. Usually the negative is the bad one and it will be dark black, or have a white powdery stuff around it. Or both of the terminals could have a white powdery stuff around them. Either way, they will need to be cleaned up.

Check it all out and see what happens.

Let me know what you find out.

fmc3
07-05-2005, 07:32 PM
Thanks! Let me give it a try!

jaime8061
07-05-2005, 08:12 PM
The vehicle in question here is a 99 Toyota Tacoma. It is a 4cyl enginer. The problem is that it wont start sometimes. You turn the key and it just clicks, engine wont turn over. Seems to be the click from the solenoid or something of that sort. If you keep trying it will eventually start up and run pretty good. Also, it seems to be a bit sluggish since I have had this problem. I'm usually pretty good with solving these problems, but this one seems to have stumped me. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!


I am having a similar problem with a 92 explorer. only it doesn't start eventually. there has been no indication that the starter was going bad or anything it just wouldn't start one night after driving it to the car wash. (did not wash it, just vacuumed it out. it had to be towed home) anyway, before this happened, it started fine. all the cables to the battery are connected correctly. any suggestions?

imtravis
07-05-2005, 08:47 PM
Car runs great, but the check engine light is on. I have noticed occassionally when driving that the gas guage lies to us (tells us almost empty, when there's more fuel left). The error code according to the engine, is P0441 (I believe). Car seems to run fine, no leaking fluids/etc. No loss of power. Any ideas? Luckily the wife and I carpool, so using my truck works for us.

Marlon_JB2
07-05-2005, 09:51 PM
0441 Evaporative purge flow system not working properly

imtravis
07-05-2005, 10:17 PM
0441 Evaporative purge flow system not working properly

And that would mean?? I know computers, not cars.. LOL..

Marlon_JB2
07-05-2005, 10:35 PM
Something's up in the fuel system. Probably related to your gas gauge prob as well. It's gotta still be under warranty, rite? Take it to the dealer.

imtravis
07-06-2005, 12:07 AM
That's what I was thinkin', I appreciate the confirmation, unfortunately I didn't realize that the Dodge dealer here sucks big time. The car's already got 38k on it (she used to drive long distance to work), so it's out of factory warranty according to them dorks. Luckily I have a friend who owes me (gave 'em a computer).

Thanks again for confirming my thoughts. (I checked the code online and had a feeling).

dfwtxpatrick
07-06-2005, 07:42 PM
I am having a similar problem with a 92 explorer. only it doesn't start eventually. there has been no indication that the starter was going bad or anything it just wouldn't start one night after driving it to the car wash. (did not wash it, just vacuumed it out. it had to be towed home) anyway, before this happened, it started fine. all the cables to the battery are connected correctly. any suggestions?

Fords have a ignition module under the hood that like to quit for no reason, and just when you least expect it.

I would recommend going to a parts store, asking for a Ignition Module and seeing what it looks like, that way you can go back to your Explorer and pull off the one there, bring it in to be tested. This would give you your first place to look and start.

Check it out and let me know.

txmitch
07-06-2005, 08:14 PM
I didn't read every post in here so I hope this hasn't been asked. What do you think of Synthetic oil?? Every one here in Texas seems to think Mobil 1 is by far the best synthetic, any opinions on that. I like Pennzoil but everyone says that is crap oil. Thanks

tbakergobuck
07-06-2005, 08:28 PM
Sometimes my Honda starts right up but other times I have to keep the key turned for a few extra seconds and then it starts. The check engine light is on and the speedomater ocassoinally doesn't work for a few minutes. Also I forget what the green light on my dash is called but it flashes sometimes. It has stawlled occasionally and one day it did it 5 times all when I was stopped. Could it be a short somewhere? For the most part it runs good. It has 191,000. lol I think it's do for the 3rd timing belt. I've been thinking about getting a Hyundai Sanafe but don't really want the payment right now. Should I sell it now or run it untill it dies? Do you think I could get $1,000 for it?

thanks for any input :)

dfwtxpatrick
07-07-2005, 07:00 AM
I didn't read every post in here so I hope this hasn't been asked. What do you think of Synthetic oil?? Every one here in Texas seems to think Mobil 1 is by far the best synthetic, any opinions on that. I like Pennzoil but everyone says that is crap oil. Thanks

Depends on what your driving, how many miles it has, and have you used sythetic oil since new?

Most cars do not require sythetic oil. You will find it in cars like the Corvette, alot of foreign sports cars and hybrid/electric vehicles.

My take on this is, if you buy a new car and change your oil every 3k miles, sythetic is not required. Unless of course, you drive your Hyundai Accent like a Formula 1 racecar, or likewise.

It is not recommended to switch back and forth from full syn to reg and back. They do make a synthetic blend, but I don't see the reason for it or think the cost is worth it either.

If you have an older car w/ alot of miles, don't know the history of the car or haven't been keeping the oil changed regularly, sythetic is not a smart option.

You can find alot of debate on the internet about using sythetic oil, but ultimately, it is up to the person buying it.

Synthetic does have a longer user life than non, but can cost upwards of 5x what a regular qt of oil costs.

I use castrol 20-50 during the warm months, and 10-30 during the cool months here in N. Texas. Have been doing that for about 25 yrs now.

Hope this helps.

dfwtxpatrick
07-07-2005, 07:08 AM
Sometimes my Honda starts right up but other times I have to keep the key turned for a few extra seconds and then it starts. The check engine light is on and the speedomater ocassoinally doesn't work for a few minutes. Also I forget what the green light on my dash is called but it flashes sometimes. It has stawlled occasionally and one day it did it 5 times all when I was stopped. Could it be a short somewhere? For the most part it runs good. It has 191,000. lol I think it's do for the 3rd timing belt. I've been thinking about getting a Hyundai Sanafe but don't really want the payment right now. Should I sell it now or run it untill it dies? Do you think I could get $1,000 for it?

thanks for any input :)

Sell it, bury it, get rid of it while you can.

I wont buy Honda's anymore, especially used ones. I have run into the exact issues you are telling me, and after replacing the starter, ignition switch, ignition key and lock cylinder, 2 checks while at 2 different shops, no one could figure it out. And after changing the things we did, it would seem to act ok for a day or two, then go right back to doing it again.

If your going to buy a used Honda, my recommendation is DON'T! But that is my opinion and I have based that opinion on what I have encountered w/ used Honda's. I am not saying don't buy a Honda, just make sure you have it checked out completely.

Sorry I couldn't be more helpful, but I have had to work on alot of Honda's w/ similar issues, and more than not, couldn't fix them.

Marlon_JB2
07-07-2005, 01:19 PM
Sell it, bury it, get rid of it while you can.

I wont buy Honda's anymore, especially used ones. I have run into the exact issues you are telling me, and after replacing the starter, ignition switch, ignition key and lock cylinder, 2 checks while at 2 different shops, no one could figure it out. And after changing the things we did, it would seem to act ok for a day or two, then go right back to doing it again.

If your going to buy a used Honda, my recommendation is DON'T! But that is my opinion and I have based that opinion on what I have encountered w/ used Honda's. I am not saying don't buy a Honda, just make sure you have it checked out completely.

Sorry I couldn't be more helpful, but I have had to work on alot of Honda's w/ similar issues, and more than not, couldn't fix them.
<Deval>But it's still a Honda.</Deval>
:hee:
OK, I'm done. :)

j2thak
07-07-2005, 01:27 PM
I have 1..

I have a 96 GMC Sierra 1500. Im wondering how I disconnect the day time running lights.. I recently had some work done.. an since then my headlights are always on when I start it up.. an I really don't have the time to take it back for them to disconnect it.. Is it possible that I can disconnect them myself so that the lights are only on when I turn them on at night or when I need them?

Thanks!

Deval
07-07-2005, 11:29 PM
<Deval>But it's still a Honda.</Deval>
:hee:
OK, I'm done. :)

:lol: evil...bastard...so evil :D

Deval
07-07-2005, 11:30 PM
Sell it, bury it, get rid of it while you can.

I wont buy Honda's anymore, especially used ones. I have run into the exact issues you are telling me, and after replacing the starter, ignition switch, ignition key and lock cylinder, 2 checks while at 2 different shops, no one could figure it out. And after changing the things we did, it would seem to act ok for a day or two, then go right back to doing it again.

If your going to buy a used Honda, my recommendation is DON'T! But that is my opinion and I have based that opinion on what I have encountered w/ used Honda's. I am not saying don't buy a Honda, just make sure you have it checked out completely.

Sorry I couldn't be more helpful, but I have had to work on alot of Honda's w/ similar issues, and more than not, couldn't fix them.


weird...I got my 2000 civic about 3 years ago, and have yet to have any problems with it...nothing major...except the window motor going bad on my drivers side

tbakergobuck
07-07-2005, 11:45 PM
Wirelessly posted (LGE-MM535/1.0 UP.Browser/6.2.3.2.l.1.100 (GUI) MMP/2.0)

Wirelessly posted (LGE-MM535/1.0 UP.Browser/6.2.3.2.l.1.100 (GUI) MMP/2.0)

My girl bought a 97 accord 4 yrs ago and haven`t had any issues. I`ll probally just run mine untill it dies. I know a guy that had over 250`000 miles before it died. I got moneys worth. I hate car payments and high insurance.

Deval
07-08-2005, 01:34 AM
Wirelessly posted (LGE-MM535/1.0 UP.Browser/6.2.3.2.l.1.100 (GUI) MMP/2.0)

Wirelessly posted (LGE-MM535/1.0 UP.Browser/6.2.3.2.l.1.100 (GUI) MMP/2.0)

My girl bought a 97 accord 4 yrs ago and haven`t had any issues. I`ll probally just run mine untill it dies. I know a guy that had over 250`000 miles before it died. I got moneys worth. I hate car payments and high insurance.


try living in NJ...you get to pay both :(...and drive a civic and be 22 years old

amp6248
07-11-2005, 05:43 PM
dfwtxpatrick,

I'm new to the posting world, outside of the military sites, 23yrs and retiring just now. My daughter is going away to school and has our 96 Mirage coupe with the 1.5 liter engine. I had the timing belt changed by dumb and dumber just for PMCS purposes and it came out running like a dud. It was a pocket rocket before that but D&D said it was coding on some obscure fuel temp/altitude sensor blah blah blah and they did the belt and sensor. Several trips back and the exhaust is now discolored with the rotten egg smell. Dealership charged 250 to tell me the engine is fine, but the timing was off by two clicks and it still ran with limited power in gear, forward or reverse. I've changed the PCV valve, cleaned the MAF, new oxygen sensors, new fuel filter and it runs passable (about half the power as before) but I'm thinking the catalytic converter is now bad from running too rich from the trips to the shops (five trips). Is the discoloration from the headers to the tailpipe a indicator that the engine was running too rich and could have burned out the converter and caused the engine to now continue to run underpowered in gear? It seems to idle fine and revs in neutral or park pretty well. The converter is a bolt in type but the replacements don't look like they are bolt in types. Any thoughts appreciated. I'm a computer technician for Sprint's internal networks and may have some answers for Sprint users group.

Andy

dfwtxpatrick
07-18-2005, 10:44 AM
I have 1..

I have a 96 GMC Sierra 1500. Im wondering how I disconnect the day time running lights.. I recently had some work done.. an since then my headlights are always on when I start it up.. an I really don't have the time to take it back for them to disconnect it.. Is it possible that I can disconnect them myself so that the lights are only on when I turn them on at night or when I need them?

Thanks!

Actually, the DRL's are supposed to be on anytime the headlights are on. That is the way GM set it up for the 96 & newer models. Apparently, if they weren't working before, then someone unhooked them and when you had the work done, the shop fixed them to work like they were supposed to.

There are several ways to disconnect the DRL's, but most involve a system that will inhibit another system.

Let me know what work you had done, then I may be able to figure out what you need to do to get them off again. Okay.

j2thak
07-18-2005, 11:36 AM
Had my fuel pump replaced.. and A/C fixed..

Thanks..

dfwtxpatrick
07-18-2005, 12:12 PM
Had my fuel pump replaced.. and A/C fixed..

Thanks..

Sounds to me like they hooked up all the unplugged wires when they redid the A/C. I'm sure they found a couple of extra wires not hooked up and they did.

Unfortuneately, I don't know which wires they are. But you may be able to get your answer from GM dealer.

If you push your parking brake in, it will turn off the DRL's while engaged. I have unplugged the wire to the parking brake before, and it will turn off the DRL's, but it will turn on the BRAKE light on the dash. That was the one and only way I know for sure to disconnect the lights.

Contact your dealer, ask for a GM service advisor, and maybe you can sweettalk him into getting w/ one of the mechanics to give you the info you need. If you get it, or I do, I will let you know. Let me know if you get it, okay.

j2thak
07-18-2005, 12:28 PM
Sounds to me like they hooked up all the unplugged wires when they redid the A/C. I'm sure they found a couple of extra wires not hooked up and they did.

Unfortuneately, I don't know which wires they are. But you may be able to get your answer from GM dealer.

If you push your parking brake in, it will turn off the DRL's while engaged. I have unplugged the wire to the parking brake before, and it will turn off the DRL's, but it will turn on the BRAKE light on the dash. That was the one and only way I know for sure to disconnect the lights.

Contact your dealer, ask for a GM service advisor, and maybe you can sweettalk him into getting w/ one of the mechanics to give you the info you need. If you get it, or I do, I will let you know. Let me know if you get it, okay.

Will do.. Thanks alot..

how much do replacement headlights cost?.. and how are they to replace?..

Thanks for the input!

fyrguy86
08-10-2005, 06:06 PM
The end of my throttle cable closest to the engine is looking like my lawn mower chewed on it. The hard plastic "grommet" that holds it in place is sliding threw the metal bracket. At times, it passes threw it and there is no "throttle" there when you press on the pedal. I ordered a new cable today. Does anyone know how to replace this? Is it a pretty simple thing to replace? Thanks for the help!!!

rlm22b
08-10-2005, 06:51 PM
The end of my throttle cable closest to the engine is looking like my lawn mower chewed on it. The hard plastic "grommet" that holds it in place is sliding threw the metal bracket. At times, it passes threw it and there is no "throttle" there when you press on the pedal. I ordered a new cable today. Does anyone know how to replace this? Is it a pretty simple thing to replace? Thanks for the help!!!

Pat probably will know how. Here is a helpful site also:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/index.php

Way2kool
02-08-2006, 01:50 AM
Boy I sure hope someone can answer and help me. Trying to find the info on the net is driving me up a freaking wall lol.

I have 1994 Ford Ecort. When I hit about 25 to 35 it hesitate and revs up. RPM goes up. I have to take my foot off the gas until it kicks in. Then once that happens it fine until I stop and take off again or slow way down.

It sounds like it is wanting to shift. but sticks. and when hiting over 50 it sounds like it wants to kick into over drive. Does Ford escorts having a shift moduler. And if so do you think this could be the problem and if it is where in the heck is it at. and do you know about how much it will cost to replace. money is super tight. So have to fix it my self, if I can if not then hoping it don't cost much to fix.

And if that is not it have any ideas. Some one told me it is the transmission oil and pan gasket.

It also has a rubbing nose coming from drivers front. The brakes, rotor and drums look fine. Some one told me it could be the dust sheild which is behind the tire but never heard of a dust sheld. Could this be the cause of the noise. if not please let me know what you think it could be.

I really like my car. and beside for those two thing it runs pretty good
I need to fix it as soon as possible before it gets much worse but cost is a big factor specially with the 400- 500 a month heating cost I have been getting lol. But I know if I don't take care of it soon it going to get worse.

any suggesiton you can give me I would truely be grateful I am so sick of searching the net and not really finding any one to help me.

I am not car expect but have had clunker in my life that I had to fix my self. But this one I am not sure about. I thougth maybe it was a vaccum hose but not seeing a problem there. Plugs coils look fine. Getting gas ok.

Please help, this is causing gray hairs lol

Patty

FlimFlam
02-08-2006, 08:52 AM
Boy I sure hope someone can answer and help me. Trying to find the info on the net is driving me up a freaking wall lol.

I have 1994 Ford Ecort. When I hit about 25 to 35 it hesitate and revs up. RPM goes up. I have to take my foot off the gas until it kicks in. Then once that happens it fine until I stop and take off again or slow way down.

It sounds (#) like it is wanting to shift. but sticks. and when hiting over 50 it sounds like it wants to kick into over drive.

My mom had a similar problem with her 97 Buick Regal. The solution had nothing to do with the transmission, though. The solution, as I tracked it down, was the Mass Air Flow sensor. Really funky overrevs, like you had to push the engine for a bit until it finally accelerated and pushed the speed up. Basically, the sensor was giving off an erratic signal, and everything else in the car flaked out, as a response. Has your engine service light gone off at all? In any case, it'd be something to check.

dfwtxpatrick
02-08-2006, 11:43 AM
Boy I sure hope someone can answer and help me. Trying to find the info on the net is driving me up a freaking wall lol.

I have 1994 Ford Ecort. When I hit about 25 to 35 it hesitate and revs up. RPM goes up. I have to take my foot off the gas until it kicks in. Then once that happens it fine until I stop and take off again or slow way down.

It sounds like it is wanting to shift. but sticks. and when hiting over 50 it sounds like it wants to kick into over drive. Does Ford escorts having a shift moduler. And if so do you think this could be the problem and if it is where in the heck is it at. and do you know about how much it will cost to replace. money is super tight. So have to fix it my self, if I can if not then hoping it don't cost much to fix.

And if that is not it have any ideas. Some one told me it is the transmission oil and pan gasket.

It also has a rubbing nose coming from drivers front. The brakes, rotor and drums look fine. Some one told me it could be the dust sheild which is behind the tire but never heard of a dust sheld. Could this be the cause of the noise. if not please let me know what you think it could be.

I really like my car. and beside for those two thing it runs pretty good
I need to fix it as soon as possible before it gets much worse but cost is a big factor specially with the 400- 500 a month heating cost I have been getting lol. But I know if I don't take care of it soon it going to get worse.

any suggesiton you can give me I would truely be grateful I am so sick of searching the net and not really finding any one to help me.

I am not car expect but have had clunker in my life that I had to fix my self. But this one I am not sure about. I thougth maybe it was a vaccum hose but not seeing a problem there. Plugs coils look fine. Getting gas ok.

Please help, this is causing gray hairs lol

Patty

As mentioned above, it could be your Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, but there are several possibilities.

MAF & MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) sensors are known to start going out and can cause these similar problems. Also, (I'm guessing you have an automatic!) check the fluid to make sure it is not dirty or has a burnt smell to it. You'll know if it's burnt by the smell. Believe me. If it is very dirty, you may need a filter and fluid change. DO NOT let them do a flush! This will not clean your transmission filter. There are times when doing this, will cause the trans to fail all together, so be prepared for a replacement trans.

The trans "shouldn't" have a shift module like your talking about. But it could. The best bet is to call the dealer and ask. They wont charge for that, but they will try to get you to bring it in. So, be prepared.

I would start w/ the fluid, and anything else that needs to be done as far as testing, I would take it to Sears or Firestone and have them run a diagnostics. This will be able to tell you if the trans, or a sensor, or whatever is the issue. It should cost between $49.99 and 89.99 for a complete test.

This is a small amount when you consider if you take it to a trans shop, of course they will tell you the trans is bad, and charge you $1500 to $2000 for the work.

As far as the rubbing noise, there are several possibilities as well. Check to see if the rubber under the fender is dropped down and rubbing. If so, simply push it back up and that will take care of the problem. The dust shield is behind the tire and is hard to tell if it is rubbing unless you take the tire off. IF you can jack up the car, put it in neutral and roll the tire to see if you can hear the noise, this will help you pinpoint where it's coming from.

I am assuming that you have the normal sized tires on it as well? If not, then it could be rubbing when you turn the wheel and that is normal if you have oversized tires on the car.

Hope this helps, and let me know if you need any more info.

Thanks for bringing this thread back, it's been pretty popular, but unused for awhile now.

Way2kool
02-08-2006, 12:01 PM
thanks so much. It may be the MAF like you said my engine light does come on, after I drive it for about 5 minutes. Is that something I can replace or do I have to take it in to get replace. If So have any idea how much that wuold cost.

I did check my transmistion fluid and it does look dirty but don't smell burnt smell to it. so I will drain that and refile it and put a new filter on it first and see if that helps if not then guess will check into the MAF.

I hate takening cars in to get fixed unless I have no choice it seem when you do they always find other things wrong they want to fix lol. And I can't afford that. Also I the labor they charge is ridiclous.
Is the MAF under the hood or the dash. Never changed one of those either lol.

I have done points, plugs. alternators, starters, U-joints. brakes. ignition modulers.

Patty

dfwtxpatrick
02-08-2006, 01:05 PM
thanks so much. It may be the MAF like you said my engine light does come on, after I drive it for about 5 minutes. Is that something I can replace or do I have to take it in to get replace. If So have any idea how much that wuold cost.

I did check my transmistion fluid and it does look dirty but don't smell burnt smell to it. so I will drain that and refile it and put a new filter on it first and see if that helps if not then guess will check into the MAF.

I hate takening cars in to get fixed unless I have no choice it seem when you do they always find other things wrong they want to fix lol. And I can't afford that. Also I the labor they charge is ridiclous.
Is the MAF under the hood or the dash. Never changed one of those either lol.

I have done points, plugs. alternators, starters, U-joints. brakes. ignition modulers.

Patty


Okay, I checked w/ Autozone and the Ford Escort doesn't have a MAP or MAF sensor. However, it does have a Air Bypass Valve. And w/ Fords, these things can cause alot of problems.

This should be the part # that is on the part I am talking about.
O.E.M. #F2CE-9F715-AB

When you open the hood. right on top of the Intake is a little valve that is about 1" around and 3" long. It is about $40 at Autozone. So call around. You will need the Part # that should resemble the one I posted above. If you can't find it, any parts store should be able to locate it and find the part #.

BEFORE you buy one, find it, and simply remove it. Be careful not to break the wires or the gasket that comes w/ it.

Now, once it is removed, you may need to clean off some exhaust deposits that accumulate on the valve. This is a common problem and is very simple to fix.

Remove the Valve, make sure to keep the buildup from breaking off and falling into the intake. Get a can of carburator cleaner while at the part store and use this to clean off the valve. DO NOT use anything abrasive.You could mess up the airflow. You may have to stick something very small into the valve to get it to move. If it won't move, let it soak in some cleaner, (Berryman B-12 in a can will be enough) making sure not to submerge the wires, then make sure you can move the valve. Now, once you have the valve clean, you may want to put just a touch of grease around the rubber o-ring (if it has one). If you can't move the valve, you'll need a new one.

Before you replace the valve, clear up all the buildup in the hole where the valve sits. You may see alot, or just alittle. Use a vacuum to clean out anything that fell down into the intake.

Once it is all cleaned out, reinstall the valve, hook up the wires and start it up. If you don't notice a difference, then it may be something else. If there is any kind of a difference, but it still doesn't run as good as it should, then you will need to replace the valve. Now, just because you don't see a difference, it could still be the valve that is the problem.

Try this and let me know.

Way2kool
02-08-2006, 05:36 PM
Patrick thanks so much for all the information. I am differently going to try your suggestion and will let you know the results.

Wish me luck lol

Patty

dfwtxpatrick
02-08-2006, 08:50 PM
Patrick thanks so much for all the information. I am differently going to try your suggestion and will let you know the results.

Wish me luck lol

Patty

No problem, if you need to, PM me and I'll give you my #. Okay.

vfr781
05-19-2006, 11:01 AM
I have a 2002 grand prix with the 3.8L (not SC). It has 83k and I replaced the tranny fluid and the fuel filter every 30k. I was driving home and noticed it was having to downshift at every little hill, whereas there is usually one hill that makes it kick down. When I got to that hill it kicked down 2 and the engine sounded like it was going to blow up and was getting slower. I turned off the cruise and had to work it more to try and keep highway speeds. It idles fine and I can rev it up in park to 4k where it hits the limiter and it is smooth and sounds fine. When you put a load on it, especially when you go up hills or just give it more gas to accelerate, it feels super sluggish, but does not knock, like low octane. It seems to run better between 2500 and 3500 rpm, but is still not right, but it will at least maintain speed. Above 4000 is sounds like it is about to blow up. I was hoping it was just bad gas but I have run a tank of premium and Lucas FI cleaner but that has not made any difference. I also always tighten the gas filler cap three clicks. The check engine light is not on and I have Advance Auto check codes but there were none. Thanks in advance.

Way2kool
05-19-2006, 01:02 PM
I am no mechanic but I had a car that had done the same thing and turn out to be the fuel line. I replaced the fuel pump and fuel line on mine and that fixed the problem, but then my car was not a grand prix either.

I have a 2002 grand prix with the 3.8L (not SC). It has 83k and I replaced the tranny fluid and the fuel filter every 30k. I was driving home and noticed it was having to downshift at every little hill, whereas there is usually one hill that makes it kick down. When I got to that hill it kicked down 2 and the engine sounded like it was going to blow up and was getting slower. I turned off the cruise and had to work it more to try and keep highway speeds. It idles fine and I can rev it up in park to 4k where it hits the limiter and it is smooth and sounds fine. When you put a load on it, especially when you go up hills or just give it more gas to accelerate, it feels super sluggish, but does not knock, like low octane. It seems to run better between 2500 and 3500 rpm, but is still not right, but it will at least maintain speed. Above 4000 is sounds like it is about to blow up. I was hoping it was just bad gas but I have run a tank of premium and Lucas FI cleaner but that has not made any difference. I also always tighten the gas filler cap three clicks. The check engine light is not on and I have Advance Auto check codes but there were none. Thanks in advance.

dfwtxpatrick
05-19-2006, 10:13 PM
I have a 2002 grand prix with the 3.8L (not SC). It has 83k and I replaced the tranny fluid and the fuel filter every 30k. I was driving home and noticed it was having to downshift at every little hill, whereas there is usually one hill that makes it kick down. When I got to that hill it kicked down 2 and the engine sounded like it was going to blow up and was getting slower. I turned off the cruise and had to work it more to try and keep highway speeds. It idles fine and I can rev it up in park to 4k where it hits the limiter and it is smooth and sounds (http:///#) fine. When you put a load on it, especially when you go up hills or just give it more gas to accelerate, it feels super sluggish, but does not knock, like low octane. It seems to run better between 2500 and 3500 rpm, but is still not right, but it will at least maintain speed. Above 4000 is sounds (#) like it is about to blow up. I was hoping it was just bad gas but I have run a tank of premium and Lucas FI cleaner but that has not made any difference. I also always tighten the gas filler cap three clicks. The check engine light is not on and I have Advance Auto check codes but there were none. Thanks in advance.

Actually, you answered your question by mentioning the transmission. First, check your fluids. You could be low some how.

BUT!

99% sure it has nothing to do w/ the motor. Especially since your not getting any pinging and sputter when this happens. Also, you state the more you try to push it, the louder the engine revs.

I'm 99% sure your transmission is going. Hate to tell you that, but if it was the motor, you'd not get a smooth idle nor be able to ping the rev limiter.

Your only real solution is to take it to a reputable shop (#) to have it diagnosed. If you know any car guys, (guys that work on their own cars) they should be able to tell you if the trans is slipping.

The average price for a replacement trans is about $1,200 - $1,600 at a good trans shop. MAKE SURE THEY ARE registered w/ the BBB before you use them, if not, find one that is registered. This is one of the easiest ways to get ripped off in car care, just about any smoe can put up a sign and fix trans. So make sure you're not going to a SMOE!

BTW, thanks for bringing back this thread, I was about to start a part III.

MissDesi
05-19-2006, 11:44 PM
van is leaking gas. 89' voyager. has new transmission. whats wrong wit it an how much 2 fix

fordcobra04
05-20-2006, 12:46 AM
van is leaking gas. 89' voyager. has new transmission. whats wrong wit it an how much 2 fix

Well, to diagnose the problem better, I would need to know the whereabouts of the fuel leak....

dfwtxpatrick
05-20-2006, 10:24 AM
Yes, we need more info.

But since you mention a new transmission, it is possible you simply have a loose fuel line that is leaking. They could have removed it to repl the transmission and just didn't get it tight enough.

I would run it by the shop you had the trans fixed at and say that it is leaking fuel. Ask nicely if one of the mechanics could at least check to see if one of the fuel lines is loose. Okay.

Other than that, you could have a leak starting at the gas tank, running all the way up to the engine.

Also, what size engine do you have? If you don't know, PM me the VIN and I can tell you. Okay. That will help us narrow down the possibilities.

LMK!

james2K
05-20-2006, 10:37 AM
Patrick,

I am wondering what is the best oil to use in my 03 Taurus w/vulcan engine. The cap recommends 5W-20 but I've been told that 5W-30 is fine also? What's the difference if any? Also, what type of oil should I use. Would a standard conventional be fine or maybe a synthetic blend? I was thinking the Mobil Clean 5000 but wouldn't mind an insight from ya. Thanks in advance!!

Marlon_JB2
05-20-2006, 11:26 AM
ooh, my favorite thread is back, yes!

I'd also like your opinion on synthetic oil! I'm switching next oil change, now that my oil change coupons have run out after 24,000 miles. :( Oh well... it was fun while it lasted. :)

Deval
05-20-2006, 12:24 PM
van is leaking gas. 89' voyager. has new transmission. whats wrong wit it an how much 2 fix

throw it in the garbage and buy a new car :hee:

tallazzFilipino
05-20-2006, 02:27 PM
Okay,

I just read the "Things that Suck" thread, and am amazed at how many people paid STUPID prices to get things fixed. And I can bet there are alot of you out there that wont admit to it!

As of right now, I am willing to Advise, Mentor or Console you in all things concerning automotive repairs. I do not know it all, but if I can help, I will do so. ABSOLUTELY FREE ADVICE spoken here!

I have over 20 yrs of military and civilian experience in the automotive industry, am pretty knowledgeable in all aspects of auto repair, sales and service. So if you need a question answered, advice on what to do or get a FREE 2nd opinion, let me know.

I live in Fort Worth, TX and just started doing my own mechanic business called "My Personal Mechanic". And I am starting to make a decent living at it.

I am not advertising, just tired of seeing people getting ripped off. Since all the info I give to any SprintUsers who ask is FREE! What do you have to loose?

Patrick

i'd like to hear your thoughts on a couple of issues i've been havin' with my honda engine.

- erratic idling. i have no vacuum leaks. i've taken the intake piping (for airbox) off and have covered the throttle body while engine is running. engine dies to prove i don't have a vacuum leak. for this engine, when started cold, the FIT (Fast Idle Thermal) valve controls idle, therefore allowin' it to idle high till it is warmed up enough with tha circulatin' coolant. once warmed up enough, it shuts air passin' through it and so the tha IAC (Idle Air Control) valve then takes care of tha idle (when warmed up). i have replaced both FIT and IAC valves with good rubber grommets. i have all new rubber vacuum hoses. i have a new IM (intake manifold) gasket properly sealed. i have a new throttle body gasket properly sealed. i also have a new PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve with new hosing as well. after all this, tha engine still hunts very calmly. my only guess is tha PCV valve. i'm goin' to be tryin' several ones at different specs. what's your take on this erratic idlin' issue?

- overheating. i'd like to add first that tha engine had been sittin' in tha garage for a couple years. after about a week of havin' this engine in tha car, i've driven up to tha mountains at about 3000'+ elevation. towards tha very end i would smell somethin' resemblin' burnin' plastic or rubber. i thought it was tha tires rubbin' on tha inner lining splash guards of tha wheel-wells. a week later after drivin' a 2-hr trip into tha desert and through uphills, this engine overheated. my new radiator cap of my new 2" thick aluminum radiator couldn't hold tha pressure and released a mess-load of coolant into my reservoir tank. before all this overheatin', i'd like to mention that i had already installed a new waterpump along with a new timing belt, replaced tha radiator from tha .75" OEM (copper) one to a 2" aluminum aftermarket one, replaced new upper and radiator hoses, and replaced all coolant lines. i had also bled tha lines from tha bleeder valve, both with tha heater on and off. basically, i bled tha lines in many different ways/routines. after this overheatin' issue, i replaced tha 2" radiator back with tha OEM one, and have replaced tha thermostat. seein' tha OEM thermostat, i noticed some rubber piece in tha middle that was all hard and cracked and possibly it could have been that burnin' rubber smell i had noticed before. i replaced that thermostat with an aftermarket one from AutoZone that actually opens up faster. after all this replacemet of parts and pieces, and bleedin' tha lines in so many different ways, this daym engine still overheated. i'm about to go back to my parents house today to put my 2" radiator back on. maybe it didn't hold pressure before, back when tha OEM thermostat was bad. at least, that's what i'm hopin' tha reason is. i don't know what else to try. plugs, wires, timing, etc. are all good. if after i put tha 2" radiator back on and it still overheats, i'm goin' to core out my thermostat so it's always open. what's your take on this overheatin' issue?

thanks,
_taF

JonathanFIUWx
05-21-2006, 12:04 AM
thanks for joining SU... finally someone who knows what they are doing

JonathanFIUWx
05-21-2006, 12:10 AM
I was hoping it was just bad gas but I have run a tank of premium and Lucas FI cleaner but that has not made any difference. I also always tighten the gas filler cap three clicks. The check engine light is not on and I have Advance Auto check codes but there were none. Thanks in advance.

you know what worked awesome for me.... try gumout recane. it works in cleaning every carbon from your injectors to your pistons to your intake valves. its made by pennzoil and it works wonders. i just got a 97 eclipse and im gunna use that now because i dont know how the other owner treated it, even though it runs awesome now. as long as i run castrol GTX (non-synthetic) lucas oil stabilizer and gumout every 3000 miles then im allowed to beat it more and more and it will last alot longer then orginally, IMO :tu:

tallazzFilipino
05-21-2006, 10:17 PM
i'd like to hear your thoughts on a couple of issues i've been havin' with my honda engine.

- erratic idling. i have no vacuum leaks. i've taken the intake piping (for airbox) off and have covered the throttle body while engine is running. engine dies to prove i don't have a vacuum leak. for this engine, when started cold, the FIT (Fast Idle Thermal) valve controls idle, therefore allowin' it to idle high till it is warmed up enough with tha circulatin' coolant. once warmed up enough, it shuts air passin' through it and so the tha IAC (Idle Air Control) valve then takes care of tha idle (when warmed up). i have replaced both FIT and IAC valves with good rubber grommets. i have all new rubber vacuum hoses. i have a new IM (intake manifold) gasket properly sealed. i have a new throttle body gasket properly sealed. i also have a new PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve with new hosing as well. after all this, tha engine still hunts very calmly. my only guess is tha PCV valve. i'm goin' to be tryin' several ones at different specs. what's your take on this erratic idlin' issue?

- overheating. i'd like to add first that tha engine had been sittin' in tha garage for a couple years. after about a week of havin' this engine in tha car, i've driven up to tha mountains at about 3000'+ elevation. towards tha very end i would smell somethin' resemblin' burnin' plastic or rubber. i thought it was tha tires rubbin' on tha inner lining splash guards of tha wheel-wells. a week later after drivin' a 2-hr trip into tha desert and through uphills, this engine overheated. my new radiator cap of my new 2" thick aluminum radiator couldn't hold tha pressure and released a mess-load of coolant into my reservoir tank. before all this overheatin', i'd like to mention that i had already installed a new waterpump along with a new timing belt, replaced tha radiator from tha .75" OEM (copper) one to a 2" aluminum aftermarket one, replaced new upper and radiator hoses, and replaced all coolant lines. i had also bled tha lines from tha bleeder valve, both with tha heater on and off. basically, i bled tha lines in many different ways/routines. after this overheatin' issue, i replaced tha 2" radiator back with tha OEM one, and have replaced tha thermostat. seein' tha OEM thermostat, i noticed some rubber piece in tha middle that was all hard and cracked and possibly it could have been that burnin' rubber smell i had noticed before. i replaced that thermostat with an aftermarket one from AutoZone that actually opens up faster. after all this replacemet of parts and pieces, and bleedin' tha lines in so many different ways, this daym engine still overheated. i'm about to go back to my parents house today to put my 2" radiator back on. maybe it didn't hold pressure before, back when tha OEM thermostat was bad. at least, that's what i'm hopin' tha reason is. i don't know what else to try. plugs, wires, timing, etc. are all good. if after i put tha 2" radiator back on and it still overheats, i'm goin' to core out my thermostat so it's always open. what's your take on this overheatin' issue?

thanks,
_taF
UPDATE!

- erratic idling. okay, i've disconnected vacuum hosin' from PCV valve to IM so tha blow-by just empties out into tha atmosphere (i know; i know). after a 2-hr drive, tha idle still hunts very; very calmly. so, i'm guessin' i've probably got another defective FIT valve or IAC valve, or maybe even a combination of both. first, i want to replace tha IAT (Idle Air Temperature) valve. tha CEL (check engine light) seems to be givin' me tha code for it every now and then (when warmed).

- overheating. i went back to my 2" radiator, drove in tha desert heat, drove uphill, drove with AC, and drove at a higher RPM toward tha higher end of tha bandwidth. so far, all is good (knock on wood). after parkin' back on driveway, it raised up to halfway mark for a quick instance and back down to normal. i'm guessin' it's because of tha softer spring in my new, AutoZone thermostat. also, i believe tha reason why my 2" radiator couldn't hold pressure before with tha old, OEM thermostat vs tha new, AutoZone radiator cap, was because tha cap released pressure before tha thermostat. that thermostat opened up at a very high temp -- if you understand my explanation.

but what bugs me is why my OEM .75" radiator wasn't good enough, even with tha softer thermostat that opens up faster (at a lower temperature).

_taF

dfwtxpatrick
05-22-2006, 12:59 PM
I will get back to you on this tonight. I want to research a couple of things and see if my hunches are correct. I'll let you know.

Shoshana
05-23-2006, 03:32 AM
Can't hurt to ask, huh?

88 Mazda 626 5 door nonturbo (2.2 liter engine)

Was running fine. Shop said we need to replace p/s pump because it's leaking (It's like 4 years old and it's leaking) and the belts cause they're being leaked on. (Belts were replaced last Dec when the alt belt snapped (defective, it was months old)) We haven't done it yet, it's been about a week since they said that that this happened.

I put gas in. My regular station. Usual grade. Drove around, then home. About 20 miles.

Next day, go to start the car, it starts and stalls. Now it cranks and cranks but won't start.

Battery is good - we hooked it up to the trickle charger just in case and it says 100%

Have fuel - just got gas.

Changed fuel filter and verified that fuel is in system.

We got a new distributor last year, and changed the sparkplugs 2 months ago.

The belts I can see, alternator and a/c belts look fine. Can't see timing belt, but I didn't hear anything snap (not that it's an indication - last December when my alt belt took out my timing belt, my husband went to buy new belts at the repair shop, and broke the timing belt on *his* car. What are the odds? We didn't hear anything, it just died on us)

Anyway, what can we can safely try to check the only things we haven't tested - the timing belt and the distributor?

Can you think of anything else it might be? It's a 4 cylinder w/ 275k miles.

And please no "You need a new car" jokes from the peanut gallery, k? :)

Thank you

'shana

Marlon_JB2
05-23-2006, 08:27 AM
No new car jokes here...

275k miles is....... a lot. :)

Anything else it might be, you ask?

Just a guess... don't go out buying stuff...

It may be a crankshaft or camshaft position sensor? If these are bad, the computer doesn't know where everything is positioned, and it will just crank.

Shoshana
05-23-2006, 11:48 AM
^ ohhh that would be EVIL! Thank you tho ;)

Sigh. I really like my car when it starts and doesn't shed parts like water....

Gets good gas milage (30 mpg combined) and is paid for :)

dfwtxpatrick
05-23-2006, 07:43 PM
Patrick,

I am wondering what is the best oil to use in my 03 Taurus w/vulcan engine. The cap recommends 5W-20 but I've been told that 5W-30 is fine also? What's the difference if any? Also, what type of oil should I use. Would a standard conventional be fine or maybe a synthetic blend? I was thinking the Mobil Clean 5000 but wouldn't mind an insight from ya. Thanks in advance!!

The follwing is taken out of a page on the internet (http:///#). Easier to search then to type.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Inside an engine, oil is in a Catch-22 scenario: It has to seal rings and valves, but it also must reduce friction. In simple terms, oil has to accomplish two functions that have directly opposite requirements.

The viscosity of any oil changes with temperature. The higher the temperature, the lower the viscosity—the oil thins out. On the flipside, the lower the temperature the higher the viscosity. Because of this, the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has established a series of viscosity classifications that establish oil performance at 100 and 0 degrees Celsius (212 and 32 degrees Fahrenheit, respectively).

Multigrade oils typically begin as base oils, such as 10W. Then viscosity-index modifiers (polymers) are added in an effort to stabilize the viscosity. This allows a 10W40 oil to flow like a 10W at cold temperatures and a 40W at higher temperatures.

The difference between a multigrade and a singlegrade oil: The singlegrade can't pass the low temperature viscosity test. If it did meet one of the following "W" viscosities, it would be a multigrade.

Low-viscosity oils flow better than high-viscosity ones—the lighter-weight fluid is easier to pump and therefore circulates faster through the engine's various galleries. Low-viscosity oils also maintain a lower oil pressure, but the oil pump delivers a greater volume through the galleries than it would with thicker (higher-viscosity) oils. Heavier oils also tend to operate at higher temperatures because the oil pump has to work harder to force the lubricant through the system. Oil does not compress readily, so the added pressure increases the temperature. In the end, high-viscosity oils maintain a higher oil pressure, but the pump delivers a smaller volume of oil.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Okay, simply put, the hotter the temp (inside the engine & outside) the thinner the oil. Thus 5w-20 is fine for cooler temp zones. While 10w-40 is better for hotter temp zones.

Okay. Here's my rule of thumb for oil. (This applies to all "AVERAGE CONSUMER" vehicles like passenger cars, trucks & SUV's.) (Cars Like Vettes, Ferrari, Lambos, ect really need to use the oils specified.)

At the time of oil change, if the average outside temp is 70 or below, stick with 5w-20 for newer cars (96 & newer) or 10w-30 (95 or older). If the Average temp is above 70, then I switch to 10w-30 (newer) or at least 10w-40 or 20w-50 (older)

If you have an older car (say 95 or older) and it's got alot of miles on it, (if the total mileage is higher than 15k per year, {Total Miles on car divided by years old} Say 120k miles divided by 7 yrs old = more than 17k a year) Then I would run a minimum of 10w-30 during the cooler months, and 20w-50 during the warmer months.

NOW, if you live in an area like ND or similar, NEVER go w/ 20w-50 because the mornings can usually be in the low 50s high 40s. This is too cool and will make a car have a hard time trying to get the oil through out the engine.

I'm quiting for now, I hope you all understand. I'm getting a headache.

NEXT!


UPDATE!

- erratic idling. okay, i've disconnected vacuum hosin' from PCV valve to IM so tha blow-by just empties out into tha atmosphere (i know; i know). after a 2-hr drive, tha idle still hunts very; very calmly. so, i'm guessin' i've probably got another defective FIT valve or IAC valve, or maybe even a combination of both. first, i want to replace tha IAT (Idle Air Temperature) valve. tha CEL (check engine light) seems to be givin' me tha code for it every now and then (when warmed).

- overheating. i went back to my 2" radiator, drove in tha desert heat, drove uphill, drove with AC, and drove at a higher RPM toward tha higher end of tha bandwidth (http://www.sprintusers.com/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=1036246#). so far, all is good (knock on wood). after parkin' back on driveway, it raised up to halfway mark for a quick instance and back down to normal. i'm guessin' it's because of tha softer spring in my new, AutoZone thermostat. also, i believe tha reason why my 2" radiator couldn't hold pressure before with tha old, OEM thermostat vs tha new, AutoZone radiator cap, was because tha cap released pressure before tha thermostat. that thermostat opened up at a very high temp -- if you understand my explanation.

but what bugs me is why my OEM .75" radiator wasn't good enough, even with tha softer thermostat that opens up faster (at a lower temperature).

_taF

Okay, Your IAT probably isn't bad, you probably just have carbon build up where it mounts. This will cause the exact problem you describe in ALOT of cars that have one of these valves. Carbon is a byproduct of oil, temp and gas that builds up inside your engine. It likes to go places that fresh air is at. It causes a build up that can clog your AIT. You will need to take off the AIT, get you some kind of small thin scraper and clean around the hole the AIT mounts in. Also do the same thing at any point you have hoses going into any part of the intake.

Carbon is a fact of life, not something you cannot stop.

The other suggestion is to get a can of Starting Fluid. (BE CAREFUL-VERY FLAMMABLE) Make sure car has a COLD or very cool engine. Start it up, and slowly spray the Starting Fluid around the intake, hoses and anywhere a hose runs up to the intake. Go slow, use small squirts and pay attention if your engine suddenly jumps up in IDLE. If it does, that means your hoses or intake have a leak at that location. Simply replace hoses, or get gaskets and replace for things like your EGR valve, ect.

If it doesn't do anything, and you've cleaned the AIT valve and areas, but it still surges or rough idles, then your problem is most likely internal. You know what that means. You may take it to a place like Firestone or Goodyear for a complete Valve and cylinder cleaning. Be prepared, this could run $75-200. Call and ask for prices.

The temp problem is most likely that the .75 radiator is not handling it's job very well. Hotter temps take more area to cool down. Not to mention a bigger radiator is going to flow more cool water into the engine when the Thermostat opens, thus staying cooler.

Can't hurt to ask, huh?

88 Mazda 626 5 door nonturbo (2.2 liter engine)

Was running fine. Shop (http:///#) said we need to replace p/s pump because it's leaking (It's like 4 years old and it's leaking) and the belts cause they're being leaked on. (Belts were replaced last Dec when the alt belt snapped (defective, it was months old)) We haven't done it yet, it's been about a week since they said that that this happened.

I put gas in. My regular station. Usual grade. Drove around, then home. About 20 miles.

Next day, go to start the car, it starts and stalls. Now it cranks and cranks but won't start.

Battery (http:///#) is good - we hooked it up to the trickle charger (http:///#) just in case (http:///#) and it says 100%

Have fuel - just got gas.

Changed fuel filter and verified that fuel is in system.

We got a new distributor last year, and changed the sparkplugs 2 months ago.

The belts I can see, alternator and a/c belts look fine. Can't see timing belt, but I didn't hear anything snap (not that it's an indication - last December when my alt belt took out my timing belt, my husband went to buy new belts at the repair shop (http:///#), and broke the timing belt on *his* car. What are the odds? We didn't hear anything, it just died on us)

Anyway, what can we can safely try to check the only things we haven't tested - the timing belt and the distributor?

Can you think of anything else it might be? It's a 4 cylinder w/ 275k miles.

And please no "You need a new car" jokes from the peanut gallery, k?

Thank you

'shana


Okay, sounds (http:///#) like your Timing belt gave out. Seriously.

Okay, the easiest way to check to see if the timing belt broke, take off the distributor cap. OR at least lift it up to see the rotor. MAKE SURE YOU PULL THE COIL WIRE OFF THE CAR COMPLETELY, OR YOU"LL FIND OUT WHAT IT IS LIKE TO BE TAZERED! 50,000 to 70,000 volts are possible from the coil.

Now, once your safely able to lift up the distributor cap, have someone turn over the engine like your trying to start it. Make sure the ignition rotor is turning. If it isn't, then the timing belt broke. (w/ 275k miles, wouldn't be surprised.)

I really don't want to go on, because I believe this is the problem. You check what I said, and if it is still turning, let me know and I'll go from there. Okay.

ADD ON to last Post by Shoshana

Mazda's are good cars, but any car needs maintenance. Timing belts are recommended to be replaced every 70-100k miles. Odds are yours is original. AND, if you do have PS fluid leaking, it could hasten the odds.

Check it out.

It seems your engine is not an interference engine, so if the belt did break, an experienced mechanic like myself (pat on back) can reset the engine, install a new belt, and your on your way.

The cost for this could run from $300 avg shops to $600 for higher class shops.

Let me know what you find out. Okay.

Shoshana
05-23-2006, 09:29 PM
Okay, sounds like your Timing belt gave out. Seriously.

Okay, the easiest way to check to see if the timing belt broke, take off the distributor cap. OR at least lift it up to see the rotor. MAKE SURE YOU PULL THE COIL WIRE OFF THE CAR COMPLETELY, OR YOU"LL FIND OUT WHAT IT IS LIKE TO BE TAZERED! 50,000 to 70,000 volts are possible from the coil.

Now, once your safely able to lift up the distributor cap, have someone turn over the engine like your trying to start it. Make sure the ignition rotor is turning. If it isn't, then the timing belt broke. (w/ 275k miles, wouldn't be surprised.)

I really don't want to go on, because I believe this is the problem. You check what I said, and if it is still turning, let me know and I'll go from there. Okay.

ADD ON to last Post by Shoshana

Mazda's are good cars, but any car needs maintenance. Timing belts are recommended to be replaced every 70-100k miles. Odds are yours is original. AND, if you do have PS fluid leaking, it could hasten the odds.

Check it out.

It seems your engine is not an interference engine, so if the belt did break, an experienced mechanic like myself (pat on back) can reset the engine, install a new belt, and your on your way.

The cost for this could run from $300 avg shops to $600 for higher class shops.

Let me know what you find out. Okay.

Thanks :)

FYI ... it's *not* the original timing belt. We've changed it and the water pump every 60k miles (or less) up until last year, when we changed it early because the alternator belt snapped and took out the timing belt. The belts were all tangled. Car was ok once it had new belts - well besides the other problems it has ;)

So, I'm with you on it being a non interference engine. My husband's car, I've been told *is* an interference engine. 91 Maxima 6 cyl. Right now it's a really big paperweight in the driveway - his timing belt broke and the shop he took it to (had it towed it to) wouldn't touch it....

We'll check that out this week end - it's dark by the time my husband gets home.

TY

dfwtxpatrick
05-23-2006, 09:58 PM
Thanks :)

FYI ... it's *not* the original timing belt. We've changed it and the water pump every 60k miles (or less) up until last year, when we changed it early because the alternator belt snapped and took out the timing belt. The belts were all tangled. Car was ok once it had new belts - well besides the other problems it has ;)

So, I'm with you on it being a non interference engine. My husband's car, I've been told *is* an interference engine. 91 Maxima 6 cyl. Right now it's a really big paperweight in the driveway - his timing belt broke and the shop (#) he took it to (had it towed it to) wouldn't touch it....

We'll check that out this week end - it's dark by the time my husband gets home.

TY

That's good. Hope I am wrong then.

I have contacts that might be able to get you an engine if your interested in getting the Maxima on the road again.

Let me know.

Shoshana
05-23-2006, 10:08 PM
Thank you :D

I'll get back to you on the engine... right now we're saving alot of gas not running the Maxima!!!

tallazzFilipino
05-23-2006, 10:12 PM
Okay, Your IAT probably isn't bad, you probably just have carbon build up where it mounts. This will cause the exact problem you describe in ALOT of cars that have one of these valves. Carbon is a byproduct of oil, temp and gas that builds up inside your engine. It likes to go places that fresh air is at. It causes a build up that can clog your AIT. You will need to take off the AIT, get you some kind of small thin scraper and clean around the hole the AIT mounts in. Also do the same thing at any point you have hoses going into any part of the intake.

Carbon is a fact of life, not something you cannot stop.

The other suggestion is to get a can of Starting Fluid. (BE CAREFUL-VERY FLAMMABLE) Make sure car has a COLD or very cool engine. Start it up, and slowly spray the Starting Fluid around the intake, hoses and anywhere a hose runs up to the intake. Go slow, use small squirts and pay attention if your engine suddenly jumps up in IDLE. If it does, that means your hoses or intake have a leak at that location. Simply replace hoses, or get gaskets and replace for things like your EGR valve, ect.

If it doesn't do anything, and you've cleaned the AIT valve and areas, but it still surges or rough idles, then your problem is most likely internal. You know what that means. You may take it to a place like Firestone or Goodyear for a complete Valve and cylinder cleaning. Be prepared, this could run $75-200. Call and ask for prices.

The temp problem is most likely that the .75 radiator is not handling it's job very well. Hotter temps take more area to cool down. Not to mention a bigger radiator is going to flow more cool water into the engine when the Thermostat opens, thus staying cooler.
hey Pat,

before i put tha engine into tha car, i had tha intake manifold cleaned at a machine shop. i was initially supposed to have it ported and polished, but because of time restraints, i just had them clean it while i was already over there. tha FIT valve and tha IAC valve are both new with new rubber gaskets, so no build-up there. back when i was still checkin' for vacuum leaks, i sprayed carb cleaner everywhere incomin' air passed through (between throttle plate through IM up to head) while tha engine was runnin' and no signs of leaks. what i did do (as another update) was i ended up just removin' tha PCV valve completely and that seemed to delete that hunting idle. i guess i'll be going to Honda this time to get another PCV valve rather than usin' tha one i purchased from AutoZone. also, i've read that several Honda owners have had to go through several PCV valves (new) before gettin' a good one.

as far as that over-heatin' issue, yeah, that's why i purchased that 2" radiator tha first time, but it still bugs me how tha OEM .75" one couldn't do tha job. i'm just anal about how when things aren't up to spec. it bugs tha heck out of me. my brother has tha same car as me, still with his .75" radiator and he lives out there in tha desert (whereas i just visit), and his is handlin' just fine. again that bugs me, lol. :frustrate

about that valve & cylinder cleaning from Goodyear/Firestone, could you explain their procedure? do they just run tha engine with some kind of cleanin' solution/formula? what if i brought just tha head to them? i'm goin' to be doin' some internal work to it, hopefully, this summer. actually, this machine shop i'll be sendin' my head to will clean it before they do work on it anyway, lmao. so, nevermind then. i appreciate your input though.

thanks,
_taF

dfwtxpatrick
05-23-2006, 10:41 PM
^^^^ No problem.

The part about removing the PCV valve, did you just plug off the hose going to your intake and left the PCV in place? It's interesting, but I agree with you about AZ parts. EVEN THOUGH I almost always shop (#) at AZ. I used to work for them as well. So I am a little biased.

Anyway, one thing you might want to check out is how much vacuum your pulling on the intake side. You may not be pulling enough to let the PCV do its job corrrectly.

Any air intake meter should be able give you a reading. Call the Honda Dealer and see what your reading should be. If your not getting enough vacuum, that can cause other issues as well.

As for the overheating, you've done some mods to the engine I'm guessing. That could acct for some of the overheating. OR it could be the Thermostat is sticking. Wouldn't be the first time.

If you can pull it out easily, drop it in a pot (one you wont use again, as the glycol can permiate the pot and release glycol during other cooking uses, thus making you sick.) with a cooking thermomiter (sp?) keep the water temp about 15 degree higher than what your thermostat is rated at. So, 195 thermostat, you want the water at about 210. Then drop the thermostat in the water, time how fast it opens. Each time, pull it out, drop it in a cup of water at room temp, (keeps the starting temp at the same each time.) leave it to soak for 1 minute. It should close while in there. If it doesn't, then the stat is bad.

Perform this test at least 5 times, (provided you didn't have problems w/ it closing in the cup of water.) you should have very close times each time it opened. If you get 5 diffent times, then it is bad. The fluxuation shouldn't be more than a few seconds between each test.

If all this proves the thermostat is good, then the smaller radiator could be bad itself. Even if it is new, it could have problems. A radiator shop could easily check it out. Or if you know someone with a radiator pressure tester, then they can do it.

Let me know.

misslady2k
05-23-2006, 10:45 PM
Here's one.

00 Mercury Mystique 51k miles.

Problem: When my tank gets half full it always stalls on me when I start it up in the morning (after I take the parking brake off and put it in drive, sits on a hill also). I am able to get it going when i tap lightly on the gas then I can get to the gas station, then it's fine after that.

leaving_ash
06-03-2006, 04:03 PM
Over the last several months I've experienced a loss in breaking down to zero. I open the master cylinder and one half of the reservoir is always dry so I refill and go back to business as usual. It seems the process occurs more and more often and I have a feeling I need to rebuild or replace the master cylinder.

I have some initial questions:
Rebuild or replace? How do I decide?
You think its tuff for a guy that has both thumbs?
If I do such work do I need to bleed the wheels?

Thing is I live in an apt and don't have any jack stands and what not.

PS I've just been refilling the reservoir when its empty...how long can you keep doing that?

leaving_ash
06-03-2006, 06:23 PM
well after a couple hours of reading and asking people I think I just have a leak somewhere. Right now the MC is full and the brakes are mush...I think air got in there when the brake fluid got too low. (?) I'm gunna try and gravity bleed em and see if that improves and then go through all my connections and lines and try and find this leak. Thing is that the leak is slow and I have about 4 other fluids also with slow leaks. I swear to God I need to put this thing out of its misery.


I not convinced yet that its the MC but under $50 at the store for a new one so thats not too bad.

dfwtxpatrick
06-03-2006, 09:13 PM
Here's one.

00 Mercury Mystique 51k miles.

Problem: When my tank gets half full it always stalls on me when I start it up in the morning (after I take the parking brake off and put it in drive, sits on a hill also). I am able to get it going when i tap lightly on the gas then I can get to the gas station, then it's fine after that.

Sound like your Fuel Pump could be in the wrong position. The fuel pump is mounted in the gas tank. This is not an uncommon problem.

Try parking on the other side of the road so your car is facing the opposite way it usually does and see what happens. If you can.


Over the last several months I've experienced a loss in breaking down to zero. I open the master cylinder and one half of the reservoir is always dry so I refill and go back to business as usual. It seems the process occurs more and more often and I have a feeling I need to rebuild (http://www.sprintusers.com/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=1038722#) or replace the master cylinder.

I have some initial questions:
Rebuild or replace? How do I decide?
You think its tuff for a guy that has both thumbs?
If I do such work do I need to bleed the wheels?

Thing is I live in an apt and don't have any jack stands and what not.

PS I've just been refilling the reservoir when its empty...how long can you keep doing that?

If you are losing fluid, and you don't see it by the MC, then you have a leak at one of the wheels, or (not common) a line.

Easy way to check is lay on the ground and look at the inside of each wheel and see if you see anything having dripped there.

If so, you need to get it fixed ASAP as this could go completely out, and while the system is set up to ensure at least one wheel on each side will work, it can still add a very LONG distance to your stopping.

james2K
06-03-2006, 09:56 PM
Okay, simply put, the hotter the temp (inside the engine & outside) the thinner the oil. Thus 5w-20 is fine for cooler temp zones. While 10w-40 is better for hotter temp zones.

Okay. Here's my rule of thumb for oil. (This applies to all "AVERAGE CONSUMER" vehicles like passenger cars, trucks & SUV's.) (Cars Like Vettes, Ferrari, Lambos, ect really need to use the oils specified.)

At the time of oil change, if the average outside temp is 70 or below, stick with 5w-20 for newer cars (96 & newer) or 10w-30 (95 or older). If the Average temp is above 70, then I switch to 10w-30 (newer) or at least 10w-40 or 20w-50 (older)

If you have an older car (say 95 or older) and it's got alot of miles on it, (if the total mileage is higher than 15k per year, {Total Miles on car divided by years old} Say 120k miles divided by 7 yrs old = more than 17k a year) Then I would run a minimum of 10w-30 during the cooler months, and 20w-50 during the warmer months.

NOW, if you live in an area like ND or similar, NEVER go w/ 20w-50 because the mornings can usually be in the low 50s high 40s. This is too cool and will make a car have a hard time trying to get the oil through out the engine.

I'm quiting for now, I hope you all understand. I'm getting a headache.

NEXT!

Thanks, that does help and I do understand much better. Sorry for the headache. :o

leaving_ash
06-03-2006, 10:02 PM
thanks dfwtxpatrick

Got a good amount air out of each rear wheel through gravity bleeding went through about 10 or 16 oz on both sides. I really didn't expect it to drain so fast...or so much. After bleeding the brakes are back to firm and seemingly well.

-The driver rear yielded some darker, redder, more polluted fluid then the passenger rear wheel so drivers side would seem ok.
-The passenger rear wheel seemed to have a lot more air in it and the fluid just looked newer and cleaner. Also there WAS some fluid showing on the inside (good call) rim of the passenger wheel so it looks like there is where the problem lies.

I couldn't get the damn front bleeders open because they are so rusted full of brake dust. The area around the MC and distributer block looked dry. (until I spilled all over it...wooops get the rag).

At this point I might take the wheel appart for giggles but I'm not really setup for car repair in my apt. I'll give it a shot but the drum is probably a mess after 150,000 miles.

ccalvinn
06-04-2006, 09:26 AM
Quick Question:

My brother is supposed to get a free car this weekend from a friend. It is a 1986 Toyota Celica. The rub is that it has been sitting in a garage for 10 years. Never moved, never started. I know the tires are crap and need to be replaced, but is there anything else that we should be aware of before we try to start it.

Here is our basic plan:
1) Check all fluid levels. If they are low, just top them off.
2) Hook up a charged battery
3) Disconnect the sparkplug wires, and turn the engine over a few times (get some oil moving around)

Assuming it turns over ok:

4) Reconnect the sparkplug wires and start her up. Let run at idle for about a minute and listen for any 'problems'

Assuming that we hear no 'problems':

5) Turn off the car, and go about doing complete fluid replacement (oil, trans, radiator)
6) Replace tires
7) Take her for a spin to check all running mechanics (clutch, trans, brakes, lights...)

Does this seem like a reasonable methodology? I've never been part of reviving a car after a year of sitting (let alone a decade of sitting)

From what the current owner says, this car was in good running condition when it was parked. No one wanted it, and it just sat there. I don't know the mileage.

Any help would be apprecited.

dfwtxpatrick
06-04-2006, 07:24 PM
Your Not Far from having it right.

However, since the car has been sitting for a confirmed 5 yrs or more, you need to do it a little different.

Take the car to where ever your gonna work on it.

BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO START IT!

Check the oil and water to make sure you don't see anything wrong w/ it.

If the water has oily spots in it, or the oil is milky in color, the engine is bad.

Drain ALL fluids, Pull Spark Plugs and wires. (Mark each wire so you know their location)
Definately replace the oil filter and add new oil. (about a $15.00 cost)
Spray WD40 very well in all cylinders and let set for a bit.
Remove the Air Filter housing and hoses. (To ensure no mice or nests are present)
Drain ALL gas you can from the tank. It is alot like varnish now, instead of gas.
Put at LEAST 5 fresh gal of gas in the tank. Do this PRIOR to next step.
HAND CRANK over the engine. Do not use the starter. It could scratch the cyl's.
Crank it over at least a dozen times.

Before doing anything else, inspect all the wires in the engine compartment, check for torn / rotted hoses, belts, ect. Clean out any nests or growth as this could cause a fire once the engine heats up.

Now that you've done all this. Your ready to attempt to start the engine. Put all wires, plugs back. Don't worry about water right now.

Turn the key to the on position and back off, DO NOT attempt to start yet. Do this 3 or 4 times. This will allow gas to move up to the engine (if it has an electric fuel pump) and see what happens. Check for gas leaks.

NOW you can try and start the motor.

Assuming the spark plug wires didn't crumble in your hands, it should at least kick over and attempt to run.

DO NOT USE STARTING FLUID AT THIS TIME.

WD 40 is highly flammable, that is why. You could create a small explosion. Okay.

If you get it running, only let it run for about three to five minutes. Some clicking or knocking for a couple of minutes is normal. DO NOT REV ENGINE. After 5 minutes, if the knocking or clicking isn't going away. Turn off engine, buy some Berryman B-12 Chemtool (available in just about any parts store or wal-mart) in the 12 or 16oz White/Blue and Red can.

Pour it in the OIL. Yes, I said OIL.

Start the engine, let run for about 5 minutes at idle. It should quiten down. If not, there may be some issues w/ the engine.

IF you get everything working and sounding good, do the following.

Pull the Thermostat, all belts, major hoses, fuel filters and toss the air filter.

Replace above parts w/ new, start engine and check it out.

NOW, w/ that said, make sure you check brake fluid, brakes and emergency brake.

A good running car isn't worth a crap if you can't stop it.

Check wiper blades, blinkers, tires, seat belts, ect.

Hope this helps. Let me know how it turns out. Include some pictures if and when you can.

aenigma
06-05-2006, 07:22 AM
1994 Ford Explorer V6
110,000 miles on it.
New: Coil Pack, 8mm Plug wires, Bosch Platinum Plugs, MAF was cleaned, new IABV, transmission fluid and filter, oil and filter, air filter, etc. etc. etc.
2.25" True Dual Exhaust - Dual in/out HiFlow Cat(CATCO), Dual in/out Flowmaster 40
19lb Inj (stock)
K&N Cold Air Intake
66mm Throttle Body
55mm Mass Air Flow Sensor
3000cfm E-fan set at 180 (removed clutch fan)
I drive it like I stole it.

Start it up and she idles at about 950rpms.
Idle sounds very clean at this point.
Now put it in drive and idle drops to about 560ish but still sounds very clean.
Now, take it out on the street and tach. above 3000rpm, come the a stop but keep it in drive and the idle kind of lopes and backfires enough to make the truck shake.
Put it in Park the idle jumps back up to 950rpm, the shake is gone but now you can still hear it in the idle.
No other problems at all, drives fine in the city on the highway.
WOT response is good.
Cold, warm or hot day it acts the same.

At first I thought the torque converter might be trying to lock up on me, but the more I think about it, it sounds like I have an injector that’s leaking fuel and then the hollow spark hits it, fighting the exhaust stroke of one of the cylinders, making it shake in a lope/backfire.

Right?

Or am I over looking something. The only other things I think it could be are the EDIS6 or the EEC-IV.

Thank you for your time.
Sgt. Sexton
US Army
63B2H8

aenigma
06-07-2006, 11:00 AM
:Poke:

cinevid
06-19-2006, 06:07 PM
Hi there, new here, but have an old van with new problem I can't figure out.
1991 Plymouth Voyager - 6 cylinder - automatic

It's gotten in the habit of stuttering, as though no spark is getting to the cylinders. It happens more during acceleration, but is present off and on all the while driving.

Here's the baffling part. When I accelerate, the speedometer locks up as it stutters heavily, then after I level off and the stuttering subsides, the speedometer will pop to the actual speed. Upon a rare occasion, even the headlights will flicker with the stuttering.

Any help solving this would be so appreciated. I've even taken it to a garage and it only cleared up for a few months. They weren't sure what it was and just cleaned stuff and checked connections, etc.

Greatly dependent and appreciative,

Bill

Marlon_JB2
06-19-2006, 06:31 PM
Sounds electrical.

My mom's old car did this. Twas the alternator and battery.

cinevid
06-20-2006, 01:24 AM
They just replaced the battery (though I never had a problem with the old one), but alternator sounds feasible. I guess I just assumed that if the alternator went out the car continues to run on the battery, but you're saying it may cause a power drop, like a reverse current? Maybe that's what killed the other battery?

Norwester
06-20-2006, 03:31 AM
Hi, and a question.

I have a '98 Dodge Intrepid. It will absolutely not start. Went to get my wife some donuts, (she's pregnant) came out, and the car wouldn't start. The lights work, the horn works, (just bought a battery 3 weeks ago), everything electrical works. There is absolutely no sound when I turn the key, no clicking of the starter trying to turn over, nothing. Besides the starter, what else could be the problem? And is there any way to test if it IS the starter?

Thanks, :cool: you rock!!!

This was way back on page 3(2 yrs ago) and he got rid of the car since but...it was very likely the neutral safety switch. Plug on the tranny with 3 wires usually,2 outer for the backup lights,and center for the NSS. If you'r in neutral or park,(or have the clutch in with a manual tranny)theres a metal rod that makes contact inside the transmission providing a ground for the starter. If the rods worn out/bent-no ground,no start. Fairly cheap easy fix.

Marlon_JB2
06-20-2006, 07:57 AM
They just replaced the battery (though I never had a problem with the old one), but alternator sounds feasible. I guess I just assumed that if the alternator went out the car continues to run on the battery, but you're saying it may cause a power drop, like a reverse current? Maybe that's what killed the other battery?
I've also heard of voltage BOOST when it comes to dead alternators / voltage regulators. Of course with this, you'd have blown fuses all over the place.

I'd wait for Patrick first though before jumping to any conclusions.

My mom's old car you may ask? '93 Plymouth Duster :p

ccalvinn
06-20-2006, 09:01 AM
Your Not Far from having it right.

However, since the car has been sitting for a confirmed 5 yrs or more, you need to do it a little different.
Hope this helps. Let me know how it turns out. Include some pictures if and when you can.

dfwtxpatrick,

Thanks for the advice. Upon one look (forgot to get pics) at the car and looking up just the tire prices we decided this would be to expensive for a free car. Instead we are buying my dad's old S-10 back for less $ than the cost of tires!

Funny story, my dad sold his S-10 a few years back for $800. The original buyer realized quickly that it wouldn't fulfill his needs (he really needed a full size pickup), so he sold it for $500. Thankfully he sold it to a moron.

This moron tooled around and ran over some rough RR tracks at 50+MPH and rattled some of the wiring loose. Now the rear lights don't work. So we are going to buy it from him for $200. Over the course of 2 years the truck has gained about 2000 miles and we will make a $600 profit on it!

Thanks again for the advice. Both my brother and I looked at the list and realized that while we were close, we weren't close enough!

Marlon_JB2
06-20-2006, 09:11 AM
I'll take the free car. :p

trista_rhae
06-20-2006, 10:43 AM
I've recently obtained a 2001 Chrysler 300m. Now it is having problems starting. I'm not really in the mood to go and pay $120 to have it tested for them to tell me there's something wrong with it then pay $300 in labor for them to look it over and tell me that it needs fixed.... :scare:

Problem: Engine will turn over and start... 2 seconds later (like clock work) it shuts down. No matter the RPM or what I do, it shuts off. If I can get it to stay on for more than 2 sec, it runs normal.... but if I can't, after about 5 or 6 times of doing this it won't turn over anymore. No sound when I turn the key; no nothing. I have to let it sit for 5+ min and then do it all over again. I'm wondering if it could be my ignition/starter relay & switch or fuel injection related?? I'm just wondering if you have ever heard of this problem before (or ANYONE). I need to get it fixed before I get stranded somewhere!

I would like to try and figure out the problem (as cheaply as possible) and then buy the parts myself and have my mechanic put them in... not pay a Chrysler dealership $900 to do a half ***** job on it. Any thoughts?

Marlon_JB2
06-20-2006, 10:52 AM
!!!!!!!!!!

I think I know what's going on here, seriously!

What color is your ignition key? If it's GRAY, you may have a problem with the Sentry Key Immobilizer. Could just need a good reprogramming!

trista_rhae
06-21-2006, 12:25 PM
!!!!!!!!!!

I think I know what's going on here, seriously!

What color is your ignition key? If it's GRAY, you may have a problem with the Sentry Key Immobilizer. Could just need a good reprogramming!

Hmmm I never really thought of that! Could it have been from some dummy who tried to jump start it the wrong way and caused problems? I have two keys for my car (one is light gray the other darker gray) I'll have to check up on the system and see the $. Thanks for the perspective! :tu: I'll have to ask about that one too!

Marlon_JB2
06-21-2006, 07:01 PM
I said that because if you try to start up my sister's Jeep without the Sentry Key, (which has the system) the exact same problem happens. It's actually quite funny. You can't fool the system (easily) either!

trista_rhae
06-21-2006, 11:58 PM
BINGO! Went to the Chrysler dealership told them what was up... they wanted to run a $130 dignostics +$75 /hr... I told them what "I thought" was wrong... they checked it out cause apartently they hadn't thought of that...(I didn't need to pay for diagnostics)... they tried to re-program my keys but ended up cutting me new ones and now... PROBLEM SOLVED! Thanks! I saved a whole lot of money that I didn't have. :clap:

"When there was trouble, I called D.W.!"

Marlon_JB2
06-22-2006, 12:06 AM
Hey, I actually solved a problem! I feel useful for once in my life. :)

That'll be $95. I'll be sending you a bill. :p

Just Kidding Of Course!

Where's Patrick?

barywane
01-08-2007, 06:03 PM
I've got a 98 Ranger - 2.5L, 5-spd, 79k miles. It seems to have a hard time starting/ideling in damp weather. runs ok when it gets up to operating temp. I've replaced the plugs and wires, coil packs and fuel filter. Also seems still have an intermittent miss. no "check engin" lights. Any ideas?

Wayne 1
01-08-2007, 06:06 PM
I've got a 98 Ranger - 2.5L, 5-spd, 79k miles. It seems to have a hard time starting/ideling in damp weather. runs ok when it gets up to operating temp. I've replaced the plugs and wires, coil packs and fuel filter. Also seems still have an intermittent miss. no "check engin" lights. Any ideas?

Does the PU have a PROPERLY operating preheating system for the intake air to aid, in humid conditions?

barywane
01-08-2007, 06:24 PM
am not aware of any. would this be an add on or EOM? (I bought the truck used)

barywane
01-08-2007, 06:26 PM
Does the PU have a PROPERLY operating preheating system for the intake air to aid, in humid conditions?

am not aware of any. would this be an add on or eom? (I bought the truck used)

Wayne 1
01-08-2007, 07:29 PM
am not aware of any. would this be an add on or eom? (I bought the truck used)


OEM, even with fuel injection which you have....... I would think there would be some warming of the intake air, with FI it may just be the ductwork system. Does anything appear to be missing on the air intake (air filter) area?

barywane
01-08-2007, 08:15 PM
OEM, even with fuel injection which you have....... I would think there would be some warming of the intake air, with FI it may just be the ductwork system. Does anything appear to be missing on the air intake (air filter) area?


no, everything is there and in good shape (no cuts/ tears in ducts), all vaccum lines seem to be attached. makes me think it might be some kind of sensor.

Wayne 1
01-08-2007, 08:26 PM
You might want to try taking it to your local mechanic, with a good scope. Park it in the shop yard overnight in the proper conditions causing the warmup problem. Have him pull it (preferably in a cold shop) in without warming it up, hook it up to the scope and troubleshoot it.

Another thought, I think some vechicles have a fuel injector for starting/warmup, maybe? I wonder if that could be dirty. Have you run a fuel injection cleaner thru it?

misslady2k
01-08-2007, 09:14 PM
Sound like your Fuel Pump could be in the wrong position. The fuel pump is mounted in the gas tank. This is not an uncommon problem.

Try parking on the other side of the road so your car is facing the opposite way it usually does and see what happens. If you can.



I would like to thank you for your wonderful insight. In fact it was my fuel pump. Grand total damage to replace = $650
A couple weeks ago I put my car back in the shop because something was loose in the front and they said it was something pressing on my brake hose and i needed to get my intake valves cleaned. ANOTHER $230

PrincessPixie
01-08-2007, 09:42 PM
Well, here's another little question.

1995 Acura Integra GSR
5-spd trans.

I was driving the car...la-la-la-la-la... things were fine and dandy. Came to a stop sign, so I stopped. The car would NOT go into gear. I pushed the clutch, pleaded, begged, but it would NOT get into any gear. Turned the car off, put the car in gea, started her up and took off. I was able to shift (not smoothly) fine enough to get the 3 blocks home. I haven't driven it since then, as I'm terrified of getting stuck somewhere late at night.

I have checked the clutch fluid, it's fine. The clutch itself seems fine. The pressure plates seem ok. I could be wrong about all of the above, as I don't have much to judge them by. Any ideas?

alexp162002
01-08-2007, 09:48 PM
Okay,

I just read the "Things that Suck" thread, and am amazed at how many people paid STUPID prices to get things fixed. And I can bet there are alot of you out there that wont admit to it!

As of right now, I am willing to Advise, Mentor or Console you in all things concerning automotive repairs. I do not know it all, but if I can help, I will do so. ABSOLUTELY FREE ADVICE spoken here!

I have over 20 yrs of military and civilian experience in the automotive industry, am pretty knowledgeable in all aspects of auto repair, sales and service. So if you need a question answered, advice on what to do or get a FREE 2nd opinion, let me know.

I live in Fort Worth, TX and just started doing my own mechanic business called "My Personal Mechanic". And I am starting to make a decent living at it.

I am not advertising, just tired of seeing people getting ripped off. Since all the info I give to any SprintUsers who ask is FREE! What do you have to loose?

Patrick


wow, i' glad you live in the DFW area... i live in Grand Prairie my self. If i have vehicle issues... which i am sure i will have a few eventually, i'd love to give you my business.

JonathanFIUWx
01-08-2007, 11:55 PM
ok heres something for you... got my belts replaced from a mechanic in october, still 90 days waranty, but the belts keep sqeeling. he says he tightened it so much he can go tighter but it keeps squeeling in the rain. any advice because the mechanic sez he cant do anything and i bother him.

also how do i know if my spark plugs/wires are bad and how do i replace the plugs

Wayne 1
01-09-2007, 01:34 AM
Last time I had trouble with NEW belts making noise, it was less than premium quality belts. It's been my experience Gates are some of the best and you can get them just about anywhere in the US.

You can check the wires resistance with a multi-meter and if they're really worn out you'll see voltage leaks at night and maybe even cracks in the boots or insulation. If I pull a plug out and the center electrode is worn which increases the gap or if there are any deposits, I replace it. Check out the mfg. recommended intervals too.

First thing I do when I buy a car is purchase a factory service manual or you could check out the manuals at your local library. There are some sites on the net too and btw your library may have some links to them too. :)

reemusk
01-09-2007, 02:31 AM
whenever i'm driving (2000 mercury grand marquis), i get a constant "WUMP WUMP WUMP WUMP WUMP" and the wheel will jerk slightly back and forth. it gets even louder as i turn.

the wheels are not out of balance, i have a feeling its bad wheel bearings.

also, i was told my belt could not be "adjusted". whenever i "get on it", between shifts you can hear the belt squeal. what do i do?


also, i know i need a new Idle Air Controller, but how much is that to purchase? should be simple to install based on location -- would it be near the mass airflow sensor?

echelon4
01-09-2007, 11:26 AM
What do you do when you got to get your oil changed, and they bring out a dirty air filter that is way over priced and is not the correct one or you car. They brought me an old big round one like I had on my 84 Dodge Ram. Problem being I had a 99 Grand Am and I know that wouldn't fit. First time I played it off as a "mistake". But yea 3 times later they are still pulling that on me.

But my other question "real" one at that. How much do you think it would be to fix a driver's side electric window? Awhile back, a plastic pulley on the window track broke into 3 pieces. Just a small plastic one about the size of a 50 cent piece except a little thicker. I go to the GM dealership to see if I can purchase jst the pulley. My dad has an ability to fix most things given the proper parts. So I was going to give him a shot at it. GM told me the part for the window was $296. I was confused and they told me just the plastic pulley wasn't purchasable, and I would have to buy a whole new window unit. They said after labor it would come to $500. I promptly asked for my keys back. Is this bogus amount? And is it true you can't just get a plastic pulley for the window unit?

Wayne 1
01-09-2007, 06:18 PM
echelon4:

I'm not sure about your situation, however a good friend of mine that buys alot of Saturn parts told me the parts are sold in modules of about $500. each, in cost. In effect it screws the mechanic/car owner that needs ONE PART.

Now you could always go to a salvage yard, Ebay, car club, or other source, for your part. Also what they may be doing is attempting to sell you a complete window regulator unit and one would think that part is NOT separate from the regulator assembly.

Look at a breakdown of the area in question in their catalog or microfish viewer, for more details. In addition if you can find out who is actually making that part, you may be able to buy it from them. The car manufacturers sub contract out many, many parts used to build their automobiles. Good luck.

JonathanFIUWx
01-09-2007, 07:43 PM
heres a new one... driving to baltimore my KN filter fell out of the car while on the highway and i drove about 5-10 miles without a filter, is there a possibility of engine damage

Wayne 1
01-09-2007, 08:38 PM
heres a new one... driving to baltimore my KN filter fell out of the car while on the highway and i drove about 5-10 miles without a filter, is there a possibility of engine damage

Maybe, I suppose it depends on how much dust was sucked into the engine. First thing I would do is change the oil and oil filter!

Wayne 1
01-09-2007, 08:41 PM
Well, here's another little question.

1995 Acura Integra GSR
5-spd trans.

I was driving the car...la-la-la-la-la... things were fine and dandy. Came to a stop sign, so I stopped. The car would NOT go into gear. I pushed the clutch, pleaded, begged, but it would NOT get into any gear. Turned the car off, put the car in gea, started her up and took off. I was able to shift (not smoothly) fine enough to get the 3 blocks home. I haven't driven it since then, as I'm terrified of getting stuck somewhere late at night.

I have checked the clutch fluid, it's fine. The clutch itself seems fine. The pressure plates seem ok. I could be wrong about all of the above, as I don't have much to judge them by. Any ideas?


This is strictly a guess, I'm not a expert on troubleshooting. Maybe the slave unit? Since this car has a hydraulic clutch.

Call your mechanic. :)

Wayne 1
01-09-2007, 08:48 PM
whenever i'm driving (2000 mercury grand marquis), i get a constant "WUMP WUMP WUMP WUMP WUMP" and the wheel will jerk slightly back and forth. it gets even louder as i turn.

the wheels are not out of balance, i have a feeling its bad wheel bearings.

also, i was told my belt could not be "adjusted". whenever i "get on it", between shifts you can hear the belt squeal. what do i do?


also, i know i need a new Idle Air Controller, but how much is that to purchase? should be simple to install based on location -- would it be near the mass airflow sensor?

Possibly the Power Steering Unit and associated parts.

Sounds like a cheap or worn out drive belt?

I don't know for certain about the controller location (other than it may be in the air intake area or intake manifold area). My area of expertise is mainly on EARLY emission autos and EARLIER non emission (before EGR valves) autos. I'll do my best on the later ones, sometimes I can help, sometimes not.

Also check out a Mitchell Manual, your well stocked libraries may have them along with "Mitchell on Demand" probably set up on a library computer. They are designed for professional mechanics, however they are very useful to anyone wanting to learn......

PrincessPixie
01-09-2007, 09:19 PM
This is strictly a guess, I'm not a expert on troubleshooting. Maybe the slave unit? Since this car has a hydraulic clutch.

Call your mechanic. :)


Yeaah... I'm getting the actual mechanic down here tomorrow. I'm not sure about slave cylinder, as there is fluid. But I will let you all know what it turns out to be, as that may help someone in the future.

Wayne 1
01-09-2007, 09:43 PM
Yeaah... I'm getting the actual mechanic down here tomorrow. I'm not sure about slave cylinder, as there is fluid. But I will let you all know what it turns out to be, as that may help someone in the future.


I suppose it could be a pressure plate or clutch linkage failure. Does the clutch pedal "feel" the same when pressed and released, as before the problem?

PrincessPixie
01-09-2007, 09:46 PM
I took the car out today. Started up, engaged reverse, did all the things a good car is suppposed to do. I drove about 15 miles or so. Parked, went inside for about an hour. Then the car did all that bad nasty not shifting stuff. I was on the highway, and it decided not to let me shift from 3rd to 4th. I had to turn the car off, come to a complete stop and then start back in 1st gear. After that it was fine the entire way home.
The clutch feels fine. There's no unnatural revving of the engine when in gear or not. There's not logical (to me) explaination for it acting up sometimes and sometimes not.

Wayne 1
01-09-2007, 09:57 PM
I know much more about the non hydraulic clutch systems than the one your car uses. I do know that a master cylinder/clutch cylinder could be failing and still show a proper fluid level. What happens is the rubber seals inside the cylinder or the bore surface (because of pitting) fail in their ability to maintain full pressure on the hydraulic system.

The mechanic may, if warranted, install a pressure guage and monitor the system under different conditions. That's very strange that it works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. Possibly the clutch disc is somehow overheating because of various components failing (pressure plate springs). How many miles does the clutch/pressure plate have on it? Also has the transmission ever been rebuilt?

BTW if he recommends the clutch and pressure plate be replaced......be sure to get the flywheel resurfaced along with the replacement of the pilot and throwout bearing's. Also if I were you I'd do some reading in service manuals with a troubleshooting section for clutches and transmissions for your model car. Try google too! Good luck.

PrincessPixie
01-09-2007, 10:34 PM
I have considered pressure plate. I did decide that barring any great ideas from anyone, if I had to do the work myself I'd be replacing the slave cylinder and pressure plate first, then clutch. I'd have to be honest in saying that it's a used car, I'm the 3rd owner, and I've had the vehicle about a year. I have no clue just at a glance what is OEM and what has ever been replaced. I'm fairly sure the tranny has never been rebuilt, and I'm also fairly sure most everything under the hood needs a good tweak.

Wayne 1
01-09-2007, 10:37 PM
Did you check the trans fluid too? Also if after researching this more (ask around and more reading) you do replace the clutch/pressure plate, be sure to replace everything as a unit.

You might want to consider taking it to your mechanic to allow him to troubleshoot it only, determine the problem, and then you can decide what you want to do.

PrincessPixie
01-09-2007, 10:43 PM
The fluid is right up near the top of the hole.

Wayne 1
01-09-2007, 10:44 PM
reemusk,

Check out the first and seventh pages of this thread, you may find it interesting.

Wayne 1
01-10-2007, 07:44 PM
pixiedrea:

I talked to a friend of mine today about your situation. He said the Accura's and Honda's are very similiar since Honda makes Accura. Also he said this DOES sound like a hydraulic problem with the clutch master cylinder and/or slave cylinder. He believes one of them (asuming it has both a clutch and slave cylinder, not all do) is not holding pressure and causing a failure which might explain your problem.

He said sometimes the slave cylinder is inside the clutch bellhousing and may require the transmission to be removed to access it. If the mechanic has a correct HIGH pressure testing guage he may be able to do a inline pressure test of the system using one of the bleed screws on the cylinders.

Did you find out anything from your mechanic? :)

PrincessPixie
01-10-2007, 08:11 PM
It was indeed the slave cylinder. It had a leak INSIDE the car. As in when you reach up near the steering column. It took all of 15 minutes to take off and another 10 to put the new one on. Apparantly it was a slow leak, which is why there was no noticible drop in the fluid level. Thanks sooo much Wayne!

Wayne 1
01-10-2007, 08:26 PM
pixiedrea:

You're welcome! Glad I could help.

Gadget
01-10-2007, 09:53 PM
Hi, I have a 2003 Toyota Sequoia. There is a recall on it (just dropped it off tonight) for the ball joint. I have experienced when backing up a sensation of having something underneath the truck. I had thought that I had back over my kids' bike in my driveway, stopped and looked and nothing... Could this be a symptom of the ball joint failing or is it something else?

Thanks in advance~

Wayne 1
01-10-2007, 10:32 PM
I'm not sure what would cause that sensation.

When ball joints wear the amount of play in the joint increases. Some joints have a wear indicator and some don't. Typically a mechanic will notice a ball joint is wearing by checking it with a pry bar prior to attempting a wheel alignment. Obviously the joint is "tight" when it is new or in good condition. I can't recall noticing play in a ball joint by just driving a car. In addition some ball joints can be lubricated and some can't, obviously I feel the best ones can be greased.

How many miles does the car have on it and has it ever been in a accident?

Gadget
01-11-2007, 09:15 AM
Thanks, Wayne. It has 39,000 miles on it. It has only been in a minor accident where it was rearended.

Wayne 1
01-11-2007, 09:31 AM
Thanks, Wayne. It has 39,000 miles on it. It has only been in a minor accident where it was rearended.


Interesting, did they tell you in the recall or otherwise, what the actual problem is with the ball joints?

bhawke01
01-11-2007, 01:17 PM
so my front breaks are starting to squeek. should i just replace my front brakes and rotars? or all four? and how much hsould it cost? its a 1999 chrysler town and country LXI

Wayne 1
01-11-2007, 07:53 PM
so my front breaks are starting to squeek. should i just replace my front brakes and rotars? or all four? and how much hsould it cost? its a 1999 chrysler town and country LXI

Have all of them inspected first, replacing them in PAIRS either front or rear is fine. Usually the front wear quicker than the rear. If the rear ones are almost toast, replace them too. The rotors have a minimum thickness, they can be turned down (machined) as long as the finished thickness is not less than that minimum. That measument is usually cast into the cast iron rotor surface. Obviously if they can be machined that will save you the cost of replacing them.

I can't help with cost, I'm quite knowledgeable about auto's with the limitations I stated earlier in this thread. Repairing them is not my occupation, it's more of a "serious" hobby. :)

bhawke01
01-12-2007, 09:57 AM
thanks atleast i have a heads up now when i go into to get them done. you helped out a ton!

akaflux
01-12-2007, 10:11 AM
okay so, new to the whole fixing up the car deal. about a month ago i had a AEM CAI installed in my 03 Corolla S. well, everything was great until i got the thing washed and i think that they soaked down the undercarriage. if the filter got wet or damaged would it cause my gas mileage to suck tremendously? my car naturally has 34 mpg, but now i went 1/4 in only 26 miles! should i just have the filter replaced? or is there a more deep seeded issue goings on here?!

Gadget
01-12-2007, 10:38 AM
Interesting, did they tell you in the recall or otherwise, what the actual problem is with the ball joints?

The ball joints were apparently scratched during production and apparently if they fail could make it more difficult for drivers to steer the vehicle.

Additionally, the dealer states that my brakes only have 3mm left and need to have the rotors ground. Huh? My truck was part of the brake recall; I had brand new, larger brakes and rotors installed less than 14,000 miles ago. My husband is not pleased.

Wayne 1
01-12-2007, 10:51 PM
okay so, new to the whole fixing up the car deal. about a month ago i had a AEM CAI installed in my 03 Corolla S. well, everything was great until i got the thing washed and i think that they soaked down the undercarriage. if the filter got wet or damaged would it cause my gas mileage to suck tremendously? my car naturally has 34 mpg, but now i went 1/4 in only 26 miles! should i just have the filter replaced? or is there a more deep seeded issue goings on here?!

Read this:

http://www.gearheadracingparts.com/aem_cai_performance_intakes.html

I think you're probably correct about the intake filter being damaged. Possibly the air/fuel mixture is negatively affected by this situation and therefore the gas mileage went bye/bye.

Wayne 1
01-12-2007, 11:04 PM
The ball joints were apparently scratched during production and apparently if they fail could make it more difficult for drivers to steer the vehicle.

Additionally, the dealer states that my brakes only have 3mm left and need to have the rotors ground. Huh? My truck was part of the brake recall; I had brand new, larger brakes and rotors installed less than 14,000 miles ago. My husband is not pleased.

That's interesting about the ball joints.

Typically mechanics will ask if the brakes "pulse" or pull which indicate damaged rotors which can be "trued" by turning them down. Also they should measure the rotor in several spots to determine variations in the thickness, and they should inspect them for groves in the surfaces. On my cars, if they pass the above inspections, I don't turn them, I just replace the brakes if warranted. :)

Wayne 1
01-13-2007, 01:46 PM
For all you collectible car fans........I can help with your questions too. Including restoration info of ALL types. :)

mossimo278
01-15-2007, 01:42 PM
I have a 95' nissan altima, i changed the CV Joints and had a mechanic replace the transmission with a used unit. This involved quite a bit of shoving the suspension out of the way. Lately I have noticed that there is a vibration at high speeds and poor wet traction and handling in the rain. Balljoints maybe? What do you think?

Wayne 1
01-15-2007, 02:09 PM
I have a 95' nissan altima, i changed the CV Joints and had a mechanic replace the transmission with a used unit. This involved quite a bit of shoving the suspension out of the way. Lately I have noticed that there is a vibration at high speeds and poor wet traction and handling in the rain. Balljoints maybe? What do you think?

Make sure the engine/trans assembly is in the original position, I asume you reused the motor mounts, there should be scratches or gouges in the surface indicating the original position. Sometimes the retaining bolts can loosen up and one CV joint will lose the proper end play on one side and the other has too much play.

Also were the CV joints COMPLETE rebuilt units (complete driveshaft assemblies), again I'll asume both sides were replaced. You may want to get the wheel alignment checked, too.

mossimo278
01-15-2007, 02:13 PM
I will check all these things, Thanks for the help. The car has nearly 200,000 on it and went somewhat uncared for by my girlfriend for sometime until I drive it one day and went what the hell?

So pretty much in one shot we did CV's (both sides, complete assymblies) and motor mounts. Then shortly after had transmission problems. All signs of frequent burn outs by a female... **slaps her on the wrist**

Wayne 1
01-15-2007, 02:26 PM
I
So pretty much in one shot we did CV's (both sides, complete assymblies) and motor mounts. Then shortly after had transmission problems.

The fact you had transmission problems shortly after replacing the driveshafts may be because of what I outlined previously, the proper play may not be present. That MAY have damaged the orginal transmission. There is a procedure in the service manuals for checking that driveshaft play. It is very important because it can also damage the CV joints and cause the vibration problem you described.

Asuming the car handled fine previously, I would go back and doublecheck all of the reassembly work done after replacing the driveshafts, too.

jumonjii
01-25-2007, 09:20 PM
Okay I have one... I think I know the problem though.

POS 92 Oldsmobile Achiva.
Sometimes when coming to a stop the engine will whine and rev really high...then drop down to nothing and stall out.

Just today, I noticed the battery gauge and speedometer dials were fluctuating.

The alternator was replaced when the battery stopped charging. I think the voltage regulator is on the blink.

Wayne 1
01-25-2007, 10:19 PM
Okay I have one... I think I know the problem though.

POS 92 Oldsmobile Achiva.
Sometimes when coming to a stop the engine will whine and rev really high...then drop down to nothing and stall out.

Just today, I noticed the battery gauge and speedometer dials were fluctuating.

The alternator was replaced when the battery stopped charging. I think the voltage regulator is on the blink.

Assuming the voltage regulator is inside the alternator and I believe it is in all newer cars (about 1971 and newer models).......You may still have a charging problem. You can doublecheck the charging rate (should be around 13.5 to 14 volts at about 2500 rpm) by using a inductive type voltage guage positioned over the top of the positive battery cable. What is the voltage reading of your OEM voltage guage?

Also do you have a multimeter, set it on dc voltage and check the battery voltage with the engine shut off immediately after the problem occurs. Voltage should be well above 12 volts. Also you can use the multimeter in the same mode to check the CHARGING voltage with the red probe on the positive battery post, etc. :)

jumonjii
01-25-2007, 10:28 PM
I'll blow myself up.

The battery gauge usually shows 12 volts or more.

Today however the gauge was fluctuating as I drove. It would drop to 8 volts then move up to 12, then down, then up. Same with the speedometer. Would show my current speed, then drop, then increase. Even though I was maintaining speed.

My Grand Prix did that once and it was the voltage regulator. The Grand Prix however didn't do it sporadically, It just freaked out and the died right in front of the auto shop.

Wayne 1
01-25-2007, 10:45 PM
Was the replacement alternator checked on a tester prior to being installed? If so what were the results of that test? Keep in mind the regulator is part of the alternator and would obviously be changed (unless it was swapped with the old one) when the alternator was replaced.

jumonjii
01-25-2007, 11:28 PM
Far as I know it was. My friend's husband is a master (backyard) mechanic and has all the gadgets. He tests everything before he puts them in someone's car.

Wayne 1
01-25-2007, 11:33 PM
Was it a new alternator? Warranty?

jumonjii
01-26-2007, 12:26 AM
I think it was a refurb and it came with a warrenty.

The thing is, the voltage meter fluctuates when the blinker is on. Was doing that before it was replaced as well.

Wayne 1
01-26-2007, 12:55 AM
Sound like a short to me, is any of the wiring noticeably damaged? Do you know the history on the car?

tbakergobuck
01-26-2007, 07:45 AM
I have a similar problem with my 1991 Honda Accord. When I'm coasting coming to a stop the car stalls out. It has happened 5 times in one day then it doesn't do it for a month. The other day it stalled out when I was turning into a gas station. It's a little scary when your power stearing goes out as your turning. lol Also when the check engine light is off sometimes the car jerks for a few seconds seems to miss fire then the check engine light comes on and the car runs fine. Just trying to keep it alive untill spring. :fingers:

barywane
01-26-2007, 02:55 PM
Question: my daughter has a 99 Rodeo, V-6, 5 spd. The check enigine light came on, she goes to have it checked. The fault code is P1627. The Isuzu dealer tells her it has to do with the fuel gauge (which doesn't work), and to have the fuel cylinder replaced. Doesn't sound right to me. As far as I can find out from different sites this code is: "PCM A/D Conversion Malfunction". We've tried the battery diconnect, and it clears for a few seconds, but comes back. Any ideas?

Wayne 1
01-26-2007, 05:50 PM
I have a similar problem with my 1991 Honda Accord. When I'm coasting coming to a stop the car stalls out. It has happened 5 times in one day then it doesn't do it for a month. The other day it stalled out when I was turning into a gas station. It's a little scary when your power stearing goes out as your turning. lol Also when the check engine light is off sometimes the car jerks for a few seconds seems to miss fire then the check engine light comes on and the car runs fine. Just trying to keep it alive untill spring. :fingers:

May be a fuel problem. Some of those cars had rusty gas tank necks which can clog the fuel pickup. I'm not sure of the exact years other than the mid 80's had problems. You can probably contact Honda for a list of any recalls that model had.

Another possibility is the gas tank pickup filter is defective and causing a occasional fuel interuption (restriction), it may not be as problematic when the tank is filled as opposed to contaning a few gallons. IF this is the problem it will also be more apparent when the engine is consuming more fuel such as during higher speeds, accelerating quickly, etc.

Wayne 1
01-26-2007, 06:04 PM
Question: my daughter has a 99 Rodeo, V-6, 5 spd. The check enigine light came on, she goes to have it checked. The fault code is P1627. The Isuzu dealer tells her it has to do with the fuel gauge (which doesn't work), and to have the fuel cylinder replaced. Doesn't sound right to me. As far as I can find out from different sites this code is: "PCM A/D Conversion Malfunction". We've tried the battery diconnect, and it clears for a few seconds, but comes back. Any ideas?

Look at a Mitchell professional repair manual or mitchell on line which should be available at your local library. They are designed for professional mechanics however are very useful for all. Call the Dallas libraries too if Ft. Worth doesn't have them. I would also check other service manuals for additional information. Sorry I don't have more info for you.

reemusk
02-01-2007, 12:25 AM
if i buy a 2005 Passat diesel (TDI), will I have trouble running the 2007 ULSD (15ppm) Diesel?

Marlon_JB2
02-01-2007, 01:31 AM
if i buy a 2005 Passat diesel (TDI), will I have trouble running the 2007 ULSD (15ppm) Diesel?
No.

My Jeep runs better on that stuff anyway.

Your engine is made for the new ULSD anyway. That's what they have been using in Europe for years.

reemusk
02-01-2007, 09:44 AM
No.

My Jeep runs better on that stuff anyway.

Your engine is made for the new ULSD anyway. That's what they have been using in Europe for years.



that is a very good point. i knew i shouldn't have listened to the guys with the cummins ;)

Marlon_JB2
02-01-2007, 10:33 AM
that is a very good point. i knew i shouldn't have listened to the guys with the cummins ;)
From what I understand, Cummins owners have been whining about Diesel ever since the Low Sulfur Diesel (500PPM) mandate. Now there's Ultra-Low Sulfur Diesel (15PPM)... here they go again.

alockard
02-10-2007, 12:47 PM
Hello,

This FREE Service you are offering is so welcome and greatly appreciated!

I have a 1990 Mazda 626 5-speed with 178000 miles and have never had any major problems. My clutch pedal sticks to the floor sometimes when I shift, it goes down and I have to pull it back up by hand, can you give some advise as to the cause of this and what I need to have done? Also, I am getting a miss in the engine and would like to know if this could be a symptom of the timing belt going out... I bought the car with 139,000 miles on it and I don't know when the belt was last replaced.


Thanks and Have A Blessed Day!

Wayne 1
02-10-2007, 03:56 PM
Hello,

This FREE Service you are offering is so welcome and greatly appreciated!

I have a 1990 Mazda 626 5-speed with 178000 miles and have never had any major problems. My clutch pedal sticks to the floor sometimes when I shift, it goes down and I have to pull it back up by hand, can you give some advise as to the cause of this and what I need to have done? Also, I am getting a miss in the engine and would like to know if this could be a symptom of the timing belt going out... I bought the car with 139,000 miles on it and I don't know when the belt was last replaced.


Thanks and Have A Blessed Day!


It is possible that you are low on clutch fluid and refilling it may cure your problem. Alternatively, you may have a leak in the clutch master or slave cylinder. Also it is possible, your pressure plate springs may have failed.

Timing belt condition is very important, if you are going to keep the car, replace the timing belt, tensioner assembly, and water pump while you have it apart. I like the Gates brand belt\tensioner kits. I think they still have a lifetime warranty.

As far as a miss goes, it could be in the ignition system, valvetrain, fuel system, vacumn leak.....You might want to get a trusted mechanic to hook it up to a scope to help determine the source of the miss. Good luck. :)

petey-boy
02-22-2007, 11:27 AM
Hi thanks for your time my 1997 2.0 mazda 626 has major stalling problems can't seem to fix no lighs no codes replaced many parts and checked fuel pressure ok even tryed junky computer no good any expert advice wood be great

Wayne 1
02-22-2007, 08:40 PM
1997: Spring in timing-belt tensioner can break and get caught, resulting in possible engine stalling.

Engine stalling: If the engine stalls when the transmission is shifted into drive, the problem may be a cracked mass-airflow snorkel tube. (1993-94) (Even though this is for earlier models, it might be worth a inspection)

Did you check the alternator output also, is it consistently within specs?

Did you check fuel pressure with the engine under load also? Under what conditions does it stall, all the time or what? Are you sure the inside of the gas tank is not rusted with sediment possibly clogging up the fuel pickup. Did you replace the fuel pump?

Will it stall at a idle, if so try getting your local, trusted mechanic to hook it up to a scope and hope it stalls.

Here are some idea's. Good luck to you.

petey-boy
02-23-2007, 09:45 AM
again thanks for your time i'm gonna check everything you said i'll keep you up dated again huge thanks petey-boy

barywane
03-04-2007, 10:19 PM
I need to change a low beam headlight on a 99 Malibu. Looks like the whole front-end has to come off, doesn't sound right to me. Is there a trick I'm missing?

 
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